Bandsaw trunnion assembly, and cracked connector

[Cornell]

I've bought a used bandsaw, refurbished by a fellow who claims to've done more than 4 dozen. Tilting the table is ...not smooth, it's jerky, like it's binding.

I'm wondering if my ... assembly is correct.

I see in a SS parts list, that there's a table clamp bolt that goes through a trunnion support, trunnion, 19/32" washer, the body, trunnion, trunnion support, 19/32" washer, thrust washer, 3/8" washer, and tilt lock assembly. On the other end, it's a screw, trunnion support, trunnion, 19/32" washer, the body, trunnion, trunnion support, stop nut.

On mine, it appears to be two carriage bolts, trunnion support, trunnion, body, trunnion, trunnion support, 19/32" washer, (thrust washer on the lock end), 3/8" washer, stop nut (on one end) or tilt lock assembly (on the other end.

I note that on the stop nut end, if the nut's screwed down, the trunnion won't move, if it's loosened up enough to allow the trunnion to move, the table gets sloppy when tilted. Although, when tilt lock is locked, I've got a repeatable 90 degree to the blade.

Also, the connector the seller provided has a crack on the accessory end, and is wrapped in electrical tape. I'm wondering if I should request the seller provide a ... less used connector. I might point out that the ad did not specify that a connector was included, so it might be considered a "freebie".

In testing the 90 degrees, table to blade, I ran a piece of 1 by.. about 1 1/2, pine through, several times at speeds A and C, at what I felt was a slow feed, and the cut was burned every time. Dull blade? The ad said new tires, but didn't mention the state of the blade (1/4"). And I was using the cracked, taped connector.

[JPG]

I've bought a used bandsaw, refurbished by a fellow who claims to've done more than 4 dozen. Tilting the table is ...not smooth, it's jerky, like it's binding.

I'm wondering if my ... assembly is correct.

I see in a SS parts list, that there's a table clamp bolt that goes through a trunnion support, trunnion, 19/32" washer, BUSHING, the body, trunnion, trunnion support, 19/32" washer, thrust washer, 3/8" washer, and tilt lock assembly. On the other end, it's a screw, trunnion support, trunnion, 19/32" washer, the body, trunnion, trunnion support, stop nut.

On mine, it appears to be two carriage bolts, trunnion support, trunnion, body, trunnion, trunnion support, 19/32" washer, (thrust washer on the lock end), 3/8" washer, stop nut (on one end) or tilt lock assembly (on the other end.

I note that on the stop nut end, if the nut's screwed down, the trunnion won't move, if it's loosened up enough to allow the trunnion to move, the table gets sloppy when tilted. Although, when tilt lock is locked, I've got a repeatable 90 degree to the blade.

Also, the connector the seller provided has a crack on the accessory end, and is wrapped in electrical tape. I'm wondering if I should request the seller provide a ... less used connector. I might point out that the ad did not specify that a connector was included, so it might be considered a "freebie".

In testing the 90 degrees, table to blade, I ran a piece of 1 by.. about 1 1/2, pine through, several times at speeds A and C, at what I felt was a slow feed, and the cut was burned every time. Dull blade? The ad said new tires, but didn't mention the state of the blade (1/4"). And I was using the cracked, taped connector.

I am relying partly on memory here, but you did not mention the bushing.

Carriage bolts will not work(You may have an older version with which I am not familiar).

I have encountered problems when the plastic parts (trunion support) are cracked. The rear screw is not tightened, but merely snugged.

I recall adding an additional washer under the clamp end knob, but do not recall where or why.(BS not accessible).

Just get a new coupler!

Yes a dull blade will cause burning(as well as too sharp a cutting radius).

[Cornell]

I didn't mention the bushing because I don't have one and the parts list doesn't indicate it. I guess I should call SS and find out.

How can I test the blade is dull? It's certainly not shiny. I rubbed my finger across the blade, the movement was jerky, but not only did I not bleed, it didn't even scrap skin off. Sounds dull.

A new blade from SS, or can I use a different brand? They're 72 inch, correct?

But then I checked the SS catalog, the 1/4 inch is $16.16. Cheap enough. I'm thinking of: "1/4" Combination Blade - 6 TPI Hooked - General purpose blade for wood, plastics, plywood and soft, nonferrous metals. Great all-purpose blade with deeper gullets and positive rake for fast chip removal and fine cut. 3/4-inch minimum radius." The other 1/4 inch combination has a more smooth cut, but isn't recommended for resawing.

Or maybe the one that comes standard: " 1/4-inch Combination Blade - .025 -- 6 TPI Hooked - General purpose blade for wood, plywood, plastics and soft non-ferrous metals. Standard with the Shopsmith Bandsaw. 3/4-inch minimum radius."

Comments?

[Cornell]

And I'd planned on getting a new connector. It's been suggested that one have two, one to use and one for spare. Wondering if the cracked one would be a good spare.

[dusty]

And I'd planned on getting a new connector. It's been suggested that one have two, one to use and one for spare. Wondering if the cracked one would be a good spare.

I have been running with a cracked connector for over a year now. I bound the cracked end with some black utility tape. It works fine.

As for a blade saw blade...a decision you have to make depending on what your shop needs are. Do you anticipate any tight turns on the bandsaw. If you do, 1/4" is probably not the best blade.

Have you determined exactly what your trunnion problem is, other that a cracked trunnion. There are no bushings associated with the trunnion on my bandsaw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manuals/845541.pdf

[JPG]

. . . There are no bushings associated with the trunnion on my bandsaw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manuals/845541.pdf

# 40

I would use a tape stronger than electrical tape(duct[real] tape.

[Cornell]

Thanks again JPG and Dusty...

I'm guessing it's electrical tape, black and a bit stretched.

I'm not planning on really tight radiuses. Mostly just general usage, some curves, resawing, bandsaw boxes.

I might spring for a 1/16 later.

I think I figured out the 0.025 in the second description, I think it's either the width of the blade or the kerf. The other description doesn't mention, I'll have to check when I call.

[GeorgeM]

Thanks again JPG and Dusty...

I'm guessing it's electrical tape, black and a bit stretched.

I'm not planning on really tight radiuses. Mostly just general usage, some curves, resawing, bandsaw boxes.

I might spring for a 1/16 later.

I think I figured out the 0.025 in the second description, I think it's either the width of the blade or the kerf. The other description doesn't mention, I'll have to check when I call.

Hi

You might want to consider cable ties. Harbor Freight has them in clear or black -- 100 for $1.89 -- http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bla ... 34635.html

GeorgeM

[Cornell]

Hi

You might want to consider cable ties. Harbor Freight has them in clear or black -- 100 for $1.89 -- http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bla ... 34635.html

GeorgeM

Cable ties? Around a cracked connector? Interesting, I'd've never considered that.

[JPG]

Hi

You might want to consider cable ties. Harbor Freight has them in clear or black -- 100 for $1.89 -- http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bla ... 34635.html

GeorgeM

Cable ties? Around a cracked connector? Interesting, I'd've never considered that.

If you do that, be careful to not go anywhere near that while rotating. The 'bump' will gitcha! I would not do that.

Maybe some of that 'speed tape' they tape airplanes with.
https://www.yahoo.com/makers/panicked-p ... 64740.html