Restoring 10ER S/N 83974

[jsburger]

More parts with the final coat of paint. These were painted just before we left for Sacramento on the 15th.

[jsburger]

More before and after pictures of some of the quill parts. The drive sleeve bearings were toast but the quill bearings didn't feel too bad. I am still going to replace all the bearings while I have it apart. They are not that expensive and it won't have to be taken apart for another 60+ years.

[jsburger]

Looking good brother. The green and silver will go over the gray primer very well .....

JK, looking forward to how she turns out ....

OK, the green and silver really looks nice but I am a die hard traditionalist. Maybe one of the other three will get a different treatment but don't hold your breath.

Well, I picked up this machines younger brother on Friday. It is S/N 83973. $100 with speed changer and jig saw. That makes 5 here now. Maybe Green and Silver is in the future.

[jsburger]

I finished disassembling the headstock today and it is ready for glass blasting. Next I cleaned and polished the quill housing. It was not rusted just dirty. I used mineral spirits to clean off all the oil and grease and then 600 grit wet/dry paper and #0000 steel wool. The ID plate was cleaned with mineral spirits. It still has some staining that is not visible in the picture. I will have to see if I can get it to look better. Finally, I experimented with polishing the aluminum knobs. I was glass blasting them and then polishing them with a buffing wheel and polishing compound. It works OK but is a bit messy. Today I took the knobs straight out of the blast cabinet and chucked them up and used #0000 steel wool. It works just as well as the buffing wheel and is less messy. Actually it may produce better results than the buffing wheel.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Looking good! I can see from your photos that I do indeed need the pin jaws that Shopsmith bundles with the Nova G3 chuck. I was wondering about that, and had been considering buying the chuck (only) from a different vendor.

[jsburger]

Looking good! I can see from your photos that I do indeed need the pin jaws that Shopsmith bundles with the Nova G3 chuck. I was wondering about that, and had been considering buying the chuck (only) from a different vendor.

I bought it recently when SS had it on sale.

[Dave H. (CO)]

Beautiful looking job. What color are you using for the gray paint? I've got a S#100273 that might need some. I also have an old greenish/blue serial number 1414 also I may be freshening up. Do you know the color for that one too?

[jsburger]

Beautiful looking job. What color are you using for the gray paint? I've got a S#100273 that might need some. I also have an old greenish/blue serial number 1414 also I may be freshening up. Do you know the color for that one too?

I am not sure if Magna changed the paint over the years but here is what Skip Campbell ( the 10ER guru) recommends other than a custom mix/match. I am sure the color on any given machine has changed a bit over the last 60+ years and they are all different.

Krylon Industrial Blue/Grey #1625
Krylon Industrial Primer Grey #340

It is hard to find. The big box stores don't cray it. O'Rileys auto parts crays it but it was not in stock locally. MSC Industrial carries it all the time. I order it on line and get it in 2 days.

After glass blasting the parts I wash them down with mineral sprites and then put on one coat of primer and two coats of the final finish.

[jsburger]

I got the headstock glass blasted and ready for primer and paint. I also glass blasted the motor and headstock pulleys and then polished with #0000 steel wool on the lathe.

[Dave H. (CO)]

Thank you, I'll see if those colors are close. Maybe the first few 1000 were a bit different color before they settled on the grey.