Have a new motor/power cord/switch to install in the 510 I'm restoring. The power cord installation instructions say to take note of the length of cable inside the head and install the new one the same way. The old one has been gone for years; does anyone have an idea of what length should be provided in the case, above the strain relief?
Also, does anyone have photos of how the cardboard piece attached to the switch is supposed to be used?
Thank you all for your help.
rte66
Help with wiring
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Re: Help with wiring
Just dress out the wiring so there is enough to reach from the strain relief to the switch. I like to run the wiring up the front wall of the headstock (under the quill) and across the rear of the front wall ( the one with the speed control) well out of the way of any moving parts. I hold the wiring in place with self adhesive cable clips. These have worked fine for me for at least 5 years.
As for the cardboard piece, they are a real PITA to reconnect. The two halves are supposed to slip together using the cut edges to hold it closed. Good luck getting your hands in the hole to secure it and better luck getting your hand out after it swells up.
Bill V
As for the cardboard piece, they are a real PITA to reconnect. The two halves are supposed to slip together using the cut edges to hold it closed. Good luck getting your hands in the hole to secure it and better luck getting your hand out after it swells up.
Bill V
Re: Help with wiring
What is the cardboard trying to do, and how does it relate to the wiring?
Also, from the not-very-helpful Power Cord Replacement sheet from Shopsmith:
"8. When reattaching the cord to the switch, attach both black leads to switch and both white leads to each other." So only 2 of the 4 tabs on the switch are used? And the female connector on the motor white lead is somehow ti be connected to the female white connector on the cord?
Also, from the not-very-helpful Power Cord Replacement sheet from Shopsmith:
"8. When reattaching the cord to the switch, attach both black leads to switch and both white leads to each other." So only 2 of the 4 tabs on the switch are used? And the female connector on the motor white lead is somehow ti be connected to the female white connector on the cord?
Re: Help with wiring
I use 18" for the power cord wires inside the motor pan and 15" for the motor power leads. Be sure to connect the power ground wire to the motor and have a grounded power plug. I use a 10' or 15' black 14 ga 3 wire extension cord and cut the female end off. I use 15" of the extension cord for the motor leads after stripping them from the jacket.rte66 wrote:Have a new motor/power cord/switch to install in the 510 I'm restoring. The power cord installation instructions say to take note of the length of cable inside the head and install the new one the same way. The old one has been gone for years; does anyone have an idea of what length should be provided in the case, above the strain relief?
Also, does anyone have photos of how the cardboard piece attached to the switch is supposed to be used?
Thank you all for your help.
rte66
Re: Help with wiring
rte66
The instructions from SS are OK. By tying the two white wires together means that you will only be switching the "Hot" lead and leaving the neutral intact. The remaining two black wires should be put on the two tabs that are in line vertically when the switch is mounted.
Bill V
PS Sorry I didn't answer the question about the cardboard thingy. It is put in to prevent electrical shock if someone puts their hand through the inspection hole while the machine is plugged in. Full line voltage will be on the back of the switch whenever it is plugged in so make sure that the machine is UNPLUGGED before putting your hand in the hole.
The instructions from SS are OK. By tying the two white wires together means that you will only be switching the "Hot" lead and leaving the neutral intact. The remaining two black wires should be put on the two tabs that are in line vertically when the switch is mounted.
Bill V
PS Sorry I didn't answer the question about the cardboard thingy. It is put in to prevent electrical shock if someone puts their hand through the inspection hole while the machine is plugged in. Full line voltage will be on the back of the switch whenever it is plugged in so make sure that the machine is UNPLUGGED before putting your hand in the hole.
- JPG
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Re: Help with wiring
If both motor wires have 'female' connections, then ignore the SS instructions and connect the white wires to the second pole of the switch.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange