table alignment

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:02 pm

I am truely sorry about you injury and especially sorry because you don't see a difference in the ease of alignment.

I'm glad the little trick of using the tenon master base as a mount for the dial indicator worked. I like it so much I'll be watching for a tenon master on ebay to be used just for this.

I also appreciate the tip from Charlese. I went back and mounted the trunnion on the extension table just to "check it out". Neat trick. I'd never have thought to use anything other than the main table. Of course maybe I'm the last one to catch on. I have an adjustable stop collar on that extension table - this worked well for getting a good alignment, even though that sort of accuracy was not necessary for this particular task.

timster68 · Post by **timster68** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:11 pm

Tennon Master and dial indicator? I think I missed that somewhere.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 3:28 pm

timster68;

Check out post #17 in the following:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1667&page=2&highlight=dial
With the enlarged base to stabilize the dial indicator, I find the readings to be more reliable. You still need to take into account the possible movement of the miter bar in the miter track.

The magnetic base of the Wixey also attaches nicely to this enlarged base. Stability is not the issue with the Wixey as it is with the dial indicator. This steel base, with a miter bar, just makes it convenient for use on a tilted table. See post #5 in the following:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=1667&highlight=dial

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:28 pm

dusty wrote:I am truely sorry about you injury and especially sorry because you don't see a difference in the ease of alignment.

I'm glad the little trick of using the tenon master base as a mount for the dial indicator worked. I like it so much I'll be watching for a tenon master on ebay to be used just for this.

I also appreciate the tip from Charlese. I went back and mounted the trunnion on the extension table just to "check it out". Neat trick. I'd never have thought to use anything other than the main table. Of course maybe I'm the last one to catch on. I have an adjustable stop collar on that extension table - this worked well for getting a good alignment, even though that sort of accuracy was not necessary for this particular task.

Dusty
We have talked about this be and again I say my injury was the cause of me not thinking through all possibilites before I did something. I more concerned with making sure I had precise alignment rather than preventing slippage when I clamped my trunnion to the table. The fault is all mine.

As for the redrilling the holes making a difference, remember I was able to align my table before so I really had no good reason to even look for trouble. I simply didn't have enough to keep my self busy and started looking for work. So again you are in no way responsible

The tip on using the base of tendonning jig is worth it's weight in gold to me, since I have always been frustrated with movement of the measuring devices that blended into my SS adjustments. Since I used the base with it's huge amount of surface area I feel my measurements are right on.

So Dusty I owe you, many thanks
Ed

chiroindixon · Post by **chiroindixon** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 5:24 pm

Daring fate and sanity, I broke out my complete A Line It Kit and dared to check my saw. Yikes.....dial indicator had my settings off a sinful .009!

Hmmm.....Not to follow Ed down the WIA road, I grabbed my miter gauge, long 5/32 key, then checked the way I learned at the three TA's I attended. Saw was dead -on. I checked the alignment on my fence and the new overhead fence jig. Again....dead on.

If anyone is interested in a barely used, full A Line It Kit, PM me. That puppy will drive you nuts.

An easier method for checking vertical alignment: I watched The Woodsmith Shop and they showed removing the insert plate, then using a good miter square, you can check how the entire blade width is aligned with the table. A check with a flashlight will show daylight if not at 90. Easier....better.

We have driven each other nuts on this forum over this topic. I remember Doug Reid claiming that he did simple checks each morning... and his had yet to have a correction made. Lesson? Once you have it "squared up", it's best to leave it alone.

Lets' all enjoy this weekend. Say a prayer for our troopers who won't be here for the festivities, but are paying so we can enjoy it.

Doc, USArmy...Retired

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 5:39 pm

chiroindixon wrote:Daring fate and sanity, I broke out my complete A Line It Kit and dared to check my saw. Yikes.....dial indicator had my settings off a sinful .009!

Hmmm.....Not to follow Ed down the WIA road, I grabbed my miter gauge, long 5/32 key, then checked the way I learned at the three TA's I attended. Saw was dead -on. I checked the alignment on my fence and the new overhead fence jig. Again....dead on.

If anyone is interested in a barely used, full A Line It Kit, PM me. That puppy will drive you nuts.

An easier method for checking vertical alignment: I watched The Woodsmith Shop and they showed removing the insert plate, then using a good miter square, you can check how the entire blade width is aligned with the table. A check with a flashlight will show daylight if not at 90. Easier....better.

We have driven each other nuts on this forum over this topic. I remember Doug Reid claiming that he did simple checks each morning... and his had yet to have a correction made. Lesson? Once you have it "squared up", it's best to leave it alone.

Lets' all enjoy this weekend. Say a prayer for our troopers who won't be here for the festivities, but are paying so we can enjoy it.

Doc, USArmy...Retired

Doc
I totally agree!!! A while back I declared dial indicators in wood shop were put there to make you crazy. I believed it then and I really believe it now.

When I first got my SS I set it up using the methods in the book (much like you describe above) and cut for nearly 25 years only realigning it when I got the my 510 upgrade. It cut like satin, smooth and straight, no swirl marks no out of true.

Then about a year ago everyone started talking about dial indicators and "accuracy" I went out and bought one. Since then I really believe my quality of cut has shown a decline. One thing is for sure I was cutting less and playing with the stupid dial indicator more.

I for one will not offer to buy your "A line it" kit.

A long hex wrench in the mitre slot does a really really super job!!!!! Incidentally after I set my SS up with the dial indicator the last time I checked my work using the old method. I know for a fact had it been off according to the old method I would have changed it. However God watches over idiots like me and He didn't want me to damage anymore of my body so by his grace my table was aligned perfectly according the mitre gauge method.

Ed

osx-addict · Post by **osx-addict** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:35 pm

Ed in Tampa wrote:A long hex wrench in the mitre slot does a really really super job!!!!!

Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:50 pm

osx-addict wrote:Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

It is Shopsmith part # 942328
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... elpkit.htm

but to respond to your specific question and need - I use something else.

Miter Gauge Stop Rod, 505629

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... =Find+Item

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:28 am

osx-addict wrote:Anyone have any suggestions on where to get one of these long 5/32 hex key/wrenches? I took one of my longest skinny screwdrivers and put it through the hole in the miter slot and perhaps 1/4" was sticking out the other side.. I now see that Eklind sells a 6" and 12" version of the 5/32 wrench.. The 6" seems a bit short I believe.. Is the 12" the version to go for?

Below is the Eklind site:

http://www.eklindtool.net/product/12invinyl.html

The long hex wench is neat for this adjustment but is a little impractical for anything else because of the lenght allows the wench to torque a lot.

Instead of making yourself crazy trying to find the wrench just use a 1/4 inch dowel. I actually built one with a small block of wood on the end. The wood provides an excellent sight line to look between it and blade/disk your using to align your table. I just use the miter guage screw to hold the dowel in the hole, with the small block on the other end I move the dowel in or out until the block is just touching the blade. I lock down the screw and then slide the mitre to the rear most position, turn the blade so I'm checking the same point and look between the blade and block. If I see light I can then use a feeler gauge to measure how much and get an idea of how much I must move the table.

One or two give and takes like this and my table is perfectly aligned.

osx-addict · Post by **osx-addict** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 2:32 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:Instead of making yourself crazy trying to find the wrench just use a 1/4 inch dowel. I actually built one with a small block of wood on the end. The wood provides an excellent sight line to look between it and blade/disk your using to align your table. I just use the miter guage screw to hold the dowel in the hole, with the small block on the other end I move the dowel in or out until the block is just touching the blade. I lock down the screw and then slide the mitre to the rear most position, turn the blade so I'm checking the same point and look between the blade and block. If I see light I can then use a feeler gauge to measure how much and get an idea of how much I must move the table.

Ed -

I don't suppose you've got a pic? I'm trying to picture it in my head but...
I like the idea of using the 1/4" dowel since I bought a 4' length yesterday for other alignment purposes..