PowerPro Upgrade, 2015

[sehast]

There have been many posts over the last several years concerning the PowerPro but I would like to share my recent experience upgrading my 510 with the upgrade kit. This is a long post but I hope it will be of interest for those contemplating a DIY upgrade.
My first Shopsmith purchase was for a used "Greenie" in 1985 which I restored but eventually replaced the headstock with a brand new one and upgraded to a 510 table system in 1990. All that remains of the Greenie is the bench which I have repainted to match the headstock. I used that configuration until this year when I made the 520 and PowerPro upgrades. That upgrade adventure started in early April when I made the initial purchase at a Lowe's demo event. I was initially told there would be a 6 week delay due to a supply problem. That delay grew to 8 weeks and then 12 weeks until I finally received the upgrade kit package last week.
After its arrival I spent the first 1/2 day watching the video and getting everything ready in the shop to start the upgrade. Bright and early the next day I began. The disassembly of the 510 went very well and within an hour or so I had removed everything except the headstock wedge lock. Dealing with driving out the roll pin in the handle took me another hour. I am sure it was just my inexperience and not having the proper tools but I found it to be a real bear. I finally ended up using an old broken 1/8" bit to knock it out after trying different punches I had on hand. Machining the new holes came next which went very well. The templates and drill bits provided in the kit were top notch. The exception was the hole in the motor pan that needs to be enlarged but I was ready with a unibit having been forewarned by previous forum posts. Shopsmith should really update the instructions, using a file for this is like using scissors to cut your lawn.
Next came installing the new quill and drive sleeve which went very smoothly, I didn't have as much trouble with the retaining ring as anticipated. Next were the Idler shaft and eccentric bushing. A couple of things to watch for here. First there is a set screw in the bushing and when you mount it, it might slip into a notch on the headstock which will let the bushing go in a little too far. I also missed the step to ensure the bushing notch where the set screw is was set at the 9 o'clock position or I would have caught the issue right away. Everything will appear to be fine and it will even run but when you try to balance the belt tensions you will have to backtrack to properly adjust the bushing. It is also very easy to mount the poly belt one ring off center on both the drive sleeve and the Idler shaft. This is a small error that won't be discovered until you start wondering why things get so hot after running for a short time. If I had it to do over again after installing each major component I would have re-watched the video for the next step. Instead I relied on the written instructions and due to the poor quality of the black and white pictures and their attempt to cover 3 different headstock configurations in each step I missed a few things. At least that is my excuse. Wiring up the switch and installing the power supply is straightforward and went smoothly. Next was installing the headstock wedge lock and my old friend the roll pin. I struggled with getting the holes to line up and driving the roll pin back in that probably cost me another hour. Unbelievable how a simple task like this can cause such aggravation.
Next up is the motor. I put the headstock back on the bench tubes and raised it to the drill press position. As instructed I mounted to table on the opposite side of the headstock to support the motor install. I didn't even realize the table could be put in from the bottom of the carriage but it can. I think this can potentially be a dangerous issue. With the table mounted on the opposite side of the carriage while in the drill press position creates some large moment arms. The arm lock is the only thing that maintains the vertical position of the headstock. The motor is one heavy mother and when I lifted it up on to the table everything wavered a bit. Then I realized the giant guillotine I had just built. I got some wood braces under the table and tightened the arm lock as much as I could. Then I was comfortable to proceed but Shopsmith should really change the instructions before someone gets hurt.
I hooked up the motor wires and pushed the motor into place. Two aluminum motor mounts on each side of the motor is how the motor attaches to the headstock with six 1/4-28 machine screws. I found that two of the threaded holes on one of the motor mounts would not allow the screws to go all the way in. I had to take the motor mount off and re-tap the two holes. Since I did not have a 1/4-28 tap I had to go to the local store to get it. The whole episode probably cost me a couple of hours.
Next issue was getting all the holes lined up on motor mount and headstock so the screws can be put in without cross threading them in the soft aluminum mounts. Contrary to the supplied instructions this is what worked for me. After putting in the top two screws on each side, swing the motor up to attach the belt to the idler shaft. Same alignment issue here, take care that the poly belt is in the proper rings on the Idler shaft. Then loosen all the screws in the motor mount assemblies allowing you to easily drive and tighten all six screws that hold the mounts to the headstock. Now tension the belt using the adjusting screws on the motor mounts. I used setup blocks to ensure the mounts on each side of the motor were spaced evenly. For me it worked out to 3/16". I got much better results with this method as opposed to trying to count the number of turns on the set screws.
Now to try running the PowerPro for the first time. I had a little issue because I missed the warning concerning GCI receptacles. After popping the GCI breaker several times I finally found the warning and got things running on a different non GCI receptacle. All was fine and I tried to adjust the eccentric bushing to balance the belt tensions. After I corrected my bushing issue discussed earlier I found little change over a full range of 180 degrees of bushing position. I had no knocking sounds at all but a small but persistent chattering of the drive sleeve and quill assemblies at 3450 RPM. I finally set the bushing where it was easiest to turn at the 10 o'clock position. The belt tensions appeared to be equal when physically inspected.
I was concerned about the chattering in the drive sleeve and quill assemblies but decided to put the motor pan and belt cover on to complete the upgrade process. Total time for me was about 12 hours but there were a lot of distractions in there. I feel confident I could do it in 4 hours if I had to do it again.
The chattering was not bad but was most noticeable at 3450 RPM. At lower RPMs I got some vibration in the quill particularly when extending it and at higher RPMs the chattering pretty much went away. Then I tried putting a saw blade on the spindle and to my surprise the chattering completely disappeared. At lower RPMs I put a sanding disc on and the quill vibration disappeared. Even the drill chuck calmed the vibration. I have a call into Shopsmith service but they have not called me back yet. I think this chattering issue is due to the electronic motor control but will be interested in what Shopsmith service says.
I will continue to put the PowerPro through some more testing and report back later.

[JPG]

Welcome to the forum!

I congratulate you on the excellent summary of your conversion.

Really outstanding for an initial post!!!!

[colday]

Thanks for an outstanding post on the upgrade! It makes me glad I ordered the full headstock! I'm thinking of making a Shop Deputy with the spare headstock, that is once I get the double tilt base.

I look forward to hearing more about your review once it gets tuned and put to use. My review probably won't be until the snow flys as I just ordered it two weeks ago through Lowe's.

Thanks again, and welcome to the forum!

Steve

[rjent]

Good first post and review. I will eventually do an upgrade to the 500 (in a few years). Glad it worked out. You will love the PP....

[sehast]

Update #1.

I heard back from Shopsmith service and they thought I had the belt tension too tight causing the Drive Sleeve to chatter. They told me that both belts should show a 1/4" deflection and I had them set closer to 1/8". I loosened the motor belt and rebalanced the belt tensions. The chatter got much better but did not completely go away. I am going to use it for a few days and see how things go since service has no further advice.

I really don't want to scare folks into not doing the upgrade themselves. If I had it to do over again I would still choose that option. I just gave a blow by blow account of my experience and I am sure some frustrations come though but overall I feel pretty good about the process. There are some recommendations I have for Shopsmith to make the upgrade experience better:

1)Redo the instruction manual to include better pictures and a separate set of instructions for each of the headstock configurations instead of embedding the differences in each step. It only costs a little more paper.

2)Emphasize the importance of ensuring the arm lock is tight before mounting the table for the motor installation. Also add a step to brace the table with wood blocks before hoisting the motor up on it.

3)Add the option to use a unibit to enlarge the hole in the motor pan.

4)Do a better quality control check of the motor mounts to ensure that the holes are properly tapped. Also consider making the motor mounts out of steel instead of aluminum. It is ironic that the throw away drill template is made out high quality steel and the motor mounts are aluminum.

5)Add to the instructions to ensure the belt tension produces a 1/4" deflection. Also in the troubleshooting section add the consequences of improper belt tension.

[berry]

Very through review of the process - thanks!

[charlese]

Wow! You had quite a time

Do you remember the person's name that told you 1/4" belt deflection? I remember the video telling that both belts should be very tight. I went with 1/8" deflection or less on the top belt. The lower one has a bit more deflection because of the longer length.

Where is the instruction that says the eccentric bushing should start a 9:00?

Your experience was quite different from mine.

[sehast]

I got this Email in response to my service request:

Customer Service
Today at 5:03 AM

To seh5@yahoo.com

​That has a lot to do with the tension on the belts. You need 1/4 " deflection on the belts and they need to be equal .​

On Wed, Jul 15, 2015 at 3:39 PM, <customerservice@shopsmith.com> wrote:


The start point of 9 o'clock is in the instructions.

[charlese]

Thanks for your reply

What happens when I have less tension? - There is belt slippage on heavy cuts.

Tomorrow, I'll check the written instructions for the 9:00 starting position. I am wondering if instructions have changed as my PowerPro is one of those in the initial offering.

[reible]

I will say that the belts need to be a lot tighter then I was use to or wanted them to be but if they are not tight enough they slip. I've never ever came close to stalling them motor but I have slipped the belt(s) when drilling a large dia. bit when it got to the break through point. Did that twice, one on each hole. Had to retighten them and so far so good. So it will be apparent if they are not tight enough in use.

Have to agree that doing the hole for the cord in the pan is so much faster and nicer with a step drill. I didn't even try the filing, just did the drilling and it takes no time at all. I had talked to one of the traveling sales persons who said he would discuss it with the powers to be and see if they would add a bit and instructions to the kit, that was a couple of years ago and it looks like that never happened.

I also have complained about the poor picture quality in most of the shopsmith instructions but that has also fell on deaf ears. This goes back years and years. I was encouraged by a few of the color printed materials that actually looked pretty good, but still not up to what I think should be the standard.

Mine when together pretty well and pretty fast but I did not follow the instructions in all cases. I like to look at them as guide lines and not rules.

Ed