Rip Fence
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Rip Fence
Re: Rip Fence
You can try the Align the Rip Fence procedure starting on page 22 here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manu ... manual.pdf
Mike
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/manu ... manual.pdf
Mike
Re: Rip Fence
Is it possible your "rest" has moved? Compare the vertical position of the "rest" on the main table to the "rest" on the extension table. If it locks in the correct position on one but not the other, then you've found the problem.
Re: Rip Fence
I had always thought a little above the table doesn't hurt a thing. Unless, of course, you are ripping 1/32" material. If this is the case, just clamp on an auxillary fence that sits flush with the table.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Re: Rip Fence
Is the rest positioned correctly onto the rail so that the curved bottom of the rest mates with the top of the rail? The only adjustment possible is the clearance of the mounting screw holes. The fence body should NOT rest on the table. 1/16 or more is typical of mine and extends all the way to the front as well as the back.
i.e. I do not consider that clearance to be a 'problem', but rather intentional.
i.e. I do not consider that clearance to be a 'problem', but rather intentional.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Rip Fence
Thank you for your reply. I used the procedure on pg. 22, still up away from the table. When reading other replies I find that some believe a bit above the table on the out feed end is not unreasonable. I can use an auxiliary fence if I need dead flat for rip cuts.
Mikec182
Mikec182
Re: Rip Fence
O.K. Mike, Now that you know a little space between the table and the fence is a good thing.
(it helps with moving the fence especially if there are any small chips on the table)
Lets focus on the outfeed end. It is secured by lowering the handle on the leading side. There is a shaft that runs through the fence and connects to the front handle and the rear clamp. That shaft my not be properly set. it may be too lose or too tight. It is adjusted by a nut at the tail end of the fence.
although not a probable cause the rod may be bent. Try the adjusting thing first. You should be able to get the space above the table equal from front to back. FYI mine is a little less than 1/16".
Ron found a diagram of the 510 fence. Here it is - http://www.shopsmith.com/service/mark/5 ... iagram.htm
(it helps with moving the fence especially if there are any small chips on the table)
Lets focus on the outfeed end. It is secured by lowering the handle on the leading side. There is a shaft that runs through the fence and connects to the front handle and the rear clamp. That shaft my not be properly set. it may be too lose or too tight. It is adjusted by a nut at the tail end of the fence.
although not a probable cause the rod may be bent. Try the adjusting thing first. You should be able to get the space above the table equal from front to back. FYI mine is a little less than 1/16".
Ron found a diagram of the 510 fence. Here it is - http://www.shopsmith.com/service/mark/5 ... iagram.htm
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA