Total alignment

[Gerry]

I have 520, and have been trying to align the saw table and Pro-Fence. I align the table vertically using an engineer's square against a Master Plate. Using the Master Plate and a dial indicator gage I then have been able to align the miter blade slot/table with the Master Plate to within .001".

I then try to align the fence with the miter bar slot, and can successfully align it within .001-.002". When I release the fence and move it slightly or just refasten in the same place it is consistently out of parallel by .010-.012".

My first question is "Is .010 to .012" within recommended allowable limits?"

Second question "If it is routinely possible to beat those numbers, what is my problem?"

Gerry

[dusty]

I have 520, and have been trying to align the saw table and Pro-Fence. I align the table vertically using an engineer's square against a Master Plate. Using the Master Plate and a dial indicator gage I then have been able to align the miter blade slot/table with the Master Plate to within .001".

I then try to align the fence with the miter bar slot, and can successfully align it within .001-.002". When I release the fence and move it slightly or just refasten in the same place it is consistently out of parallel by .010-.012".

My first question is "Is .010 to .012" within recommended allowable limits?"

Second question "If it is routinely possible to beat those numbers, what is my problem?"

Gerry

Some might consider it allowable but I certainly don't and you won't either if you try to use it that way. You can get the fence as accurate as you did the Master Plate to Miter Slot.

It should be routinely possible to beat those numbers and my cavalier response is that you have not really aligned the fence. However, there is a chance that you have a broken part in the fence.

Before we go there, please confirm that when preparing to align the fence that you loosen the four (4) hex head screws on top of the fence, relocate the fence to what should be parallel to the miter slot (or blade) and then tighten those four hex screws (without allowing the fence to move.

I do all of that with the front of the fence locked to the rail and the back of the fence unlocked.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/begin ... 9-s20.html

[JPG]

It is possible that technique when locking down the fence in contributing to the misalignment.

Before setting any clamp, first press firmly against the front of the fence so as to assure the front of the fence is up against the front rail. Only then apply the front clamp.

Last the rear clamp is applied.

Now the clamps themselves also need to be properly adjusted.

[dusty]

It is possible that technique when locking down the fence in contributing to the misalignment.

Before setting any clamp, first press firmly against the front of the fence so as to assure the front of the fence is up against the front rail. Only then apply the front clamp.

Last the rear clamp is applied.

Now the clamps themselves also need to be properly adjusted.

I need for you to explain how the fence is adjusted if you have it locked to the rails.

Furthermore, it is my opinion that pressing the front clamp to the rail achieves nothing that is not achieved by simply locking the front of the fence to the rail. Have you had experience that dictates otherwise.

[jsburger]

It is possible that technique when locking down the fence in contributing to the misalignment.

Before setting any clamp, first press firmly against the front of the fence so as to assure the front of the fence is up against the front rail. Only then apply the front clamp.

Last the rear clamp is applied.

Now the clamps themselves also need to be properly adjusted.

I need for you to explain how the fence is adjusted if you have it locked to the rails.

Furthermore, it is my opinion that pressing the front clamp to the rail achieves nothing that is not achieved by simply locking the front of the fence to the rail. Have you had experience that dictates otherwise.

I totally agree with your opinion. The relationship of the front clamp and the fence itself is what determines the alignment. The rear clamp has nothing to do with initial alignment other than holding the out feed end of the fence in place so it does not flex.

[JPG]

There is more than one instant in time when adjusting the fence occurs.

In addition to the aligning the fence to the miter slot, one also aligns the front of the fence to the front rail.

Not having experience with the 520 fence, I cannot speak to that. However the 500 and 510 fence will not 'automatically' align correctly to the front rail merely by setting the clamp. Their front clamp is set by rotating the 'lock' handle.

This is particularly persnickity with the 500 since both clamps are engaged with the same handle but in sequence.

I consider relieving the clamping mechanism from the task of proper registration to be a reasonable objective. Besides setting the fence for the width of a rip cut requires the fence to be registered as you move it into place while simultaneously measuring the distance from the blade.

[jsburger]

There is more than one instant in time when adjusting the fence occurs.

In addition to the aligning the fence to the miter slot, one also aligns the front of the fence to the front rail.

Not having experience with the 520 fence, I cannot speak to that. However the 500 and 510 fence will not 'automatically' align correctly to the front rail merely by setting the clamp. Their front clamp is set by rotating the 'lock' handle.

This is particularly persnickity with the 500 since both clamps are engaged with the same handle but in sequence.

I consider relieving the clamping mechanism from the task of proper registration to be a reasonable objective. Besides setting the fence for the width of a rip cut requires the fence to be registered as you move it into place while simultaneously measuring the distance from the blade.

That is very true. On the 520 I use the front lock handle to move the fence while measuring for final adjustment. I move the fence very slightly then lightly push down on the front lock handle to register and square the fence and remeasure. Repeat as needed and when correct lock the front handle all the way and then the rear lock handle. Very easy and fast.

[BuckeyeDennis]

There is more than one instant in time when adjusting the fence occurs.

In addition to the aligning the fence to the miter slot, one also aligns the front of the fence to the front rail.

Not having experience with the 520 fence, I cannot speak to that. However the 500 and 510 fence will not 'automatically' align correctly to the front rail merely by setting the clamp. Their front clamp is set by rotating the 'lock' handle.

This is particularly persnickity with the 500 since both clamps are engaged with the same handle but in sequence.

I consider relieving the clamping mechanism from the task of proper registration to be a reasonable objective. Besides setting the fence for the width of a rip cut requires the fence to be registered as you move it into place while simultaneously measuring the distance from the blade.

That is very true. On the 520 I use the front lock handle to move the fence while measuring for final adjustment. I move the fence very slightly then lightly push down on the front lock handle to register and square the fence and remeasure. Repeat as needed and when correct lock the front handle all the way and then the rear lock handle. Very easy and fast.

Ditto. I generally move the fence's front end only, and let the front clamp reposition the back of the fence. The magnetic scale can be useful for judging the incremental move.

[dusty]

Are there two different methods being stated here for aligning the 520 fence. It seems that some feel it is necessary to push the front of the rip fence against to rail to make it square itself while others feel that it will square itself when locked to the rail.

I believe that it will square itself when locked but that it might not be located where you want it. I pressure the fence against the rail when I am relocating it so that I can properly read the indicator but I rely on the lock to square it to the rail. I do the same thing (sorta) with the 510.

Both the 510 and the 520 fences preposition themselves to the prealigned position when the locks are applied. Both must be locked at the rear before relying on them.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Are there two different methods being stated here for aligning the 520 fence. It seems that some feel it is necessary to push the front of the rip fence against to rail to make it square itself while others feel that it will square itself when locked to the rail.

I believe that it will square itself when locked but that it might not be located where you want it. I pressure the fence against the rail when I am relocating it so that I can properly read the indicator but I rely on the lock to square it to the rail. I do the same thing (sorta) with the 510.

Both the 510 and the 520 fences preposition themselves to the prealigned position when the locks are applied. Both must be locked at the rear before relying on them.

I think that you, jsburger, and I are all in agreement, with the minor exception that jsburger and I use the front clamp lever (partial engagement, in my case) to square up the fence, even for the initial distance reading. Specifically, I don't take the clamp lever "over-center" until the scale reading is where I want it.