For 'knocking off edges', a roughing gouge is 'the' tool.Ohgary wrote:The hole for the tang faced the tail stock. I changed out the ball bearing tail stock center and put in the one with the cone shape (sorry I don't know the correct nomenclature yet). I think you were right about knocking off the corners.
I didn't get back to the lathe today but am plotting my next moves.
Help with lathe work
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- JPG
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Re: Help with lathe work
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Help with lathe work
Now WHY wood ya drill the hole AFTER it's turned?jsburger wrote:The hole should be drilled after the part is turned.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Re: Help with lathe work
Drilling after turning would make it a lot easier to mount the stock ( a solid billet ) in the lathe but would present the problem of holding a round tapered shape for drilling or horizontal boring. I plan to try it both ways and see which is easier overall. I also want to try gluing a wood disk on the ends of the stock for mounting in the lathe. Stay tuned...
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Re: Help with lathe work
I would ask why would you drill the tang hole 'before' you turned it?
I would be inclined to keep a short area on both ends 'square' for hole drilling.
Turn the handle but do not separate it from the ends. Drill the tang hole and saw off the ends(Turn it down to a small radius just before drilling).
Ya most likely will want a ferrule on the drilled end.
I would be inclined to keep a short area on both ends 'square' for hole drilling.
Turn the handle but do not separate it from the ends. Drill the tang hole and saw off the ends(Turn it down to a small radius just before drilling).
Ya most likely will want a ferrule on the drilled end.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Help with lathe work
Drilling the hole before turning was an experiment. The YouTube guys who make their own carbide chisels mill dados in two halves of wood then glue them up creating a half inch square hole to a accept the steel bar. So far none I have seen uses a Shopsmith to turn their handle. They all have big lathes often with 4 jaw chucks. They can position the square hole on the headstock end. So I tried the technique on a small turning except I put my hole on the tail stock end. Forum members are right, though. I did not have a good connection with the dead center. Time to start from scratch, and as Tom Edison said, I didn't fail. I just found something else that doesn't work. 
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Re: Help with lathe work
Also a reason to try differently.Ohgary wrote:Drilling the hole before turning was an experiment. The YouTube guys who make their own carbide chisels mill dados in two halves of wood then glue them up creating a half inch square hole to a accept the steel bar. So far none I have seen uses a Shopsmith to turn their handle. They all have big lathes often with 4 jaw chucks. They can position the square hole on the headstock end. So I tried the technique on a small turning except I put my hole on the tail stock end. Forum members are right, though. I did not have a good connection with the dead center. Time to start from scratch, and as Tom Edison said, I didn't fail. I just found something else that doesn't work.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Help with lathe work
I have a post somewhere here where I did some handles for some home made lathe tools. In all cases I did the holes first, and I was I believe 6 for 6 on the builds.
It simply comes down to what tools you have and how to use them. In my case I used a stebs like center to drive the handle and a 60 deg. live center on the other end.
I'll see if I can find that post sometime later today and give a link to it.
If you want to stick with the tools you have it can be done but it will take some more thinking on just how to proceed. As was already mentioned you can leave square ends on the blank and drill using the horizontal drill press set up. For pre-drilled holes you can put a temporary piece in the hole for the center to use, this would work quite well for the square hole idea..... anyway you can make handles on a shopsmith for sure.
Ed
It simply comes down to what tools you have and how to use them. In my case I used a stebs like center to drive the handle and a 60 deg. live center on the other end.
I'll see if I can find that post sometime later today and give a link to it.
If you want to stick with the tools you have it can be done but it will take some more thinking on just how to proceed. As was already mentioned you can leave square ends on the blank and drill using the horizontal drill press set up. For pre-drilled holes you can put a temporary piece in the hole for the center to use, this would work quite well for the square hole idea..... anyway you can make handles on a shopsmith for sure.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Help with lathe work
1. Mount the square stock in the lathe and turn the tenon on one end.
2. Remove the piece and drill the tang hole using the horizontal boring system
3. replace the stock on the lathe by grabbing the tenon in a chuck and turning the rest of the handle to shape.
No lathe chuck? Turn a piece of stock mounted on a faceplate and make a a jam chuck by shaping a tight fitting stub tenon for the hole in the handle and securing the opposite end in the tailstock. Turn to shape. Or you could make a hole in the faceplate stock to hold the tenon on the handle. (my preference) Once you have the faceplate piece made don't throw it away you may need more handles in the future
Bill V
2. Remove the piece and drill the tang hole using the horizontal boring system
3. replace the stock on the lathe by grabbing the tenon in a chuck and turning the rest of the handle to shape.
No lathe chuck? Turn a piece of stock mounted on a faceplate and make a a jam chuck by shaping a tight fitting stub tenon for the hole in the handle and securing the opposite end in the tailstock. Turn to shape. Or you could make a hole in the faceplate stock to hold the tenon on the handle. (my preference) Once you have the faceplate piece made don't throw it away you may need more handles in the future
Bill V
Re: Help with lathe work
You will have to go in several pages to get to the handle portion but here is the link to the thread:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 14251.html
Ed
http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/gener ... 14251.html
Ed
reible wrote:I have a post somewhere here where I did some handles for some home made lathe tools. In all cases I did the holes first, and I was I believe 6 for 6 on the builds.
It simply comes down to what tools you have and how to use them. In my case I used a stebs like center to drive the handle and a 60 deg. live center on the other end.
I'll see if I can find that post sometime later today and give a link to it.
If you want to stick with the tools you have it can be done but it will take some more thinking on just how to proceed. As was already mentioned you can leave square ends on the blank and drill using the horizontal drill press set up. For pre-drilled holes you can put a temporary piece in the hole for the center to use, this would work quite well for the square hole idea..... anyway you can make handles on a shopsmith for sure.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
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Re: Help with lathe work
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange