Rescued another one!!!

[ERLover]

Thanks JPG, and John, did that, went to Vintage Machinery and got the SC instructions, it is the Floating Pulley, (center one) that wont move laterally on the shaft.
If I can get them should I go with the original size belts or the 22 25" and I will go with the cog design, I have them on my other one, not here so cant look at there size.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Here's Skip Campbell's advice on the subject, which I salted away when someone posted it here a while back.

Here's information on belt sizes I copied from Skip Campbell on the Yahoo 10ER site:

"Just a note on the belt sizes for the 10ER:

The direct drive belt for most 10ERs with the A.O. Smith 1/2 HP motor is a 38" or 4L380. For the
3/4 HP A.O. Smith a 39" belt works better. The 38" is a little tight for changing steps even with
the motor all the way up.

For the speed changer, the original belts were a 22.5 and 25.5" (4L225 and 4L255). Since 1/2"
sizes are hard to find these days we have found that 22 and 25" (4L220 and 4L250) works best
on most machines with the 1/2 HP motor. In order to keep the speed changer dial relatively
close when changing ranges, both belts need to be shortened or extended the same length from
the original belt size. 22" and 25" are both 1/2" shorter. 23" and 26" would work as far as
keeping the dial centered but on most machines that would have the motor hitting the bench.
You can use other combinations but you will have to re adjust the dial when changing ranges
and in some cases you will not be able to get the dial calibrated. The outer sheaves on the speed
changer pulley need to be properly adjusted no matter what belts you are using. The spacing
should be set to allow the belts to go down into the groove as deep as possible WITHOUT
bottoming on the center hub. I try to set them with about 1/16" daylight under the belt. With
the 22 and 25" belts, if the sheaves are not set correctly and belt tension set correctly, not only
will you not get full speed range but in some cases the pulley hub will rub on the adjusting rod. I
hope this helps some."

[ERLover]

Thanks BD, I have that one already book marked and read it today.

[jsburger]

Memory is coming back bit, the center sheave should move back and forth, it is frozen all the way to one side, I guess the ATF and MS will need to be applied, any other suggestions appreciated.

IIRC, loosen the knurled knob and remove the pulley. It needs to rotate freely on the shaft also. Bushing rides on shaft, center sheave slides on bushing. Been a while fer me too.

Not quite. The sheaves are on a steel shaft. There are sintered bronze bushings (one on each end of the main steel shaft) and those ride on the shaft attached to the movable arm. The center sheave moves back and fourth on the large outer steel shaft and not the bushings.

The speed changer in my other thread about the refurb had the same problem. It would barely slide back and forth. It was due to over lubrication and gummed up with dry lubricant and saw dust. There is no or very minimal lubrication required on the center sheave. There is no rotational difference between thae sheave and the shaft it is installed on. It only slides back and forth when the speed is changed.

One other thing if you need to replace the bronze bushings. There are only two sources since they are non standard and have to be machined from standard size bushings. That is Skip Campbell (MKCTools) and Hogwinslow. They are not always available so If you think you will need a set then get them when you see them (eBay). I replaced the ones in the refurb thread (that is a big subject in itself). The bushings have a flange on them. The shaft that sheave assembly installs on has a shoulder that the attaching nut bottoms on. The bushings I bought had a flange that was too thick (just a few thou) and the nut bottomed on the bushing flange instead of the shaft flange which caused the pulley assembly to not rotate.

I bought bushings from both Skip and Hogwinslow and I don't know where this particular set came from. I am NOT bashing either of them. It could be that the speed changer hardware was worn. I just took the shaft with the bushings installed and touched it on the SS sanding disk with 320 paper and all is well.

[jsburger]

Thanks JPG, and John, did that, went to Vintage Machinery and got the SC instructions, it is the Floating Pulley, (center one) that wont move laterally on the shaft.
If I can get them should I go with the original size belts or the 22 25" and I will go with the cog design, I have them on my other one, not here so cant look at there size.

The original belt sizes are no longer available. Just buy them from Skip, they are the coged ones from Good Year. They are standard belts but seem to be hard to find here so I get mine from Skip.

[JPG]

Try to find DAYCO TOP COG 15225 and 15255.

[jsburger]

Try to find DAYCO TOP COG 15225 and 15255.

OK, but there are no local chain stores listed. So if I still have to buy them on line I would rather support Skip.

[ERLover]

John if I remember right I could move the floating pulley by hand left and right when I cleaned up my other SC, with no belts on it.

[jsburger]

John if I remember right I could move the floating pulley by hand left and right when I cleaned up my other SC, with no belts on it.

I think we are out of sync. Yes, you should move the center sheave left and right with out the belts but not with them.

[ERLover]

Now we are in sync, so I need to free that one up.