My adaption of a router table

[benush26]

A long time ago, Steve (cooch366) was posting about how he had a SS table modified to take a router and recently showed his design again.
At that time, I had similar thoughts but went a different route for a few reasons.
First, ease of setup and removal. With my design the table sets on the tubes. The weight of the router and table easily keeps it in place.

Second it HAD to follow the edge contours of a 520 table. The reason for that is that I use the router table with an INCRA TS-LS and Wonder fence, which has "runners". Those runners are positioned just above and outside the edge of the rails assemblies.

I have this fitted between the two tables, however it could be placed at either end with extension tubes (and legs for bracing) if I want a lower height and want to use it strictly as a router table.

When I first proposed the idea, Dusty asked about the router hitting the way tubes. If I lower the main table to a height where a 2by could set on top of the headstock, there is enough clearance for my main router (Triton).
I had also considered getting the rail assemblies and attaching them to a melamine top cut to the correct dimension and therefore not cutting up a table, but I would have had to hold and align that table between the two others while trying to insert the tubes. Just too much work for this old fart.

Anyway, was doing some cleaning and decided to take a couple pictures. The red metal "L" brackets came with the INCRA table to be used for attaching to a conventional saw. I just used them for my own purposes.

97.JPG (808.96 KiB) Viewed 3277 times

99.JPG (827.72 KiB) Viewed 3277 times

I did notch out the areas where the nubs on the main table protrude. With the main table pushed as far as it can go, there is about a 1/4" gap for the table to set snugly between the two tables OR I can push everything together for a nearly seamless top. On a large piece I was able to use the miter gauge in the main table to help guide work as it passed the router bit, but it was almost too much to push safely!

Anyway, it works for my needs.

Sorry this took such a long time to get posted.

Be well,
Ben

[rjent]

That is outstanding! I like it!

I have been using the PP to do my routing, but I am beginning to see that a router/table has it's advantages.

Thanks for posting this Ben ....

[cooch366]

Great design Ben. Looks VERY functional.

Always more than 1 way to......(add your own....)

I think it's great that with so many of us, it's not about the end result but the journey to get there.
Maybe Shopsmith could use some of our ideas and in return maybe some complementary equipment in lieu of royalties.

Again NICE job....

Steve

[masonsailor2]

Has anyone ever purchased the pro router table system from SS ? Just curious. It is very pricey but looks like it should work really well.
Paul

[benush26]

Has anyone ever purchased the pro router table system from SS ? Just curious. It is very pricey but looks like it should work really well.
Paul

Hi Paul.
The pro router system was where I began in my quest?? to replace my existing router table (Bosch) with something more space efficient. Steve was working on his and I was thinking of something similar (only for the 520 table), but transitioned into removing enough material to allow router plate insert leveler system on the far left side. That got to be pricey! And the idea of installing and removing that assembly was not too enticing for an old lazy weak fart like me.

Then, I began working on alternatives which were less costly.

One option on the pro table I did not like (however JUST personal opinion and experience) was the Woodhaven router insert. I've had issues with similar pieces in the past and felt for the price SS was asking "I" would have preferred something else (aluminum aka INCRA), but others will tell you they have had great success.

If you are not concerned with the included fence system you could buy the rail assemblies front and rear, take the dimensions you want and have a table custom made by a cabinet maker and route the opening to fit what ever brand of insert you want (Kreg, Rockler, INCRA, etc.. even Woodhaven )

The cost for the table should be about 2/3, (About $115 for the rails, $50 for the custom table, $90 to $130 for the insert), but actual cost could change depending upon your choices. Frankly for about $100 more and no muss no fuss, the table from SS isn't a bad way to go... Did I just write that??? The wild card is the fence, which I personally think looks like a tremendous fence! A $300 fence?? I'm not sure for that price. A less substantial fence could be constructed for significantly less but you need to determine your need versus cost threshold. But then again my goal was to get something that would work with my INCRA fence system.

Given the time I spent designing, bargain hunting and modifying the INCRA table system, I most likely would have been ahead buying the SS pro table (not the fence) and then replacing the Woodhaven with the INCRA insert. It would have accomplished the same end. However, part of the fun for me was the creative aspect. I happened upon a great deal for the INCRA table with aluminum router plate for $140, So my materials cost was less than half the cost of the SS finished product. HOWEVER, the labor involved with test fitting, assembly and reassembly, etc. was easily 10 real hours.

My biggest difference is the ease of placing and removing my table design, compared to the SS version. On many days, that alone is a BIG perceived difference for me.

If I had it all to do over again and had the extra $200 (as a trade for labor and frustration compensation ), I think I would have purchased the pro table (without fence).

Just some thoughts.

Be well,
Ben