Eccentric Mounting Tube

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rkh2
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Post by rkh2 »

I also have the eccentric mounting tubes (555626) on my band saw which I usually leave mounted on my SS and haven't noticed any type of spring boarding that is being talked about. Since I added the kreg fence system, I prefer to not have to lift it off in order to change to drill press mode.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
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john
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Post by john »

I opted for the eccentric tubes years ago and my bandsaw is almost a permanent fixture on the 510. The ability to move into drill press mode without removing the BS is just great.

There is a certain amount of "spring" to the bandsaw but I have not found that to be a problem and since installing the Kreg fence, I prefer not to move the bandsaw if possible.

Just my $0.02.

Have fun

John
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Let me restate my question from earlier in this thread.

Why would anyone want to replace Eccentric Mounting Tubes (5137779) with Adjustable Eccentric Mounting Tubes (555626)?

Either one can be used to mount the bandsaw (SPT) on the Shopsmith and if the eccentrics are adjusted properly the Shopsmith can be moved to the drill press mode without removing the SPT.

I don't believe Shopsmith has quit selling 5137779. In fact, 5137779 is listed as an integral part of the SPT in the exploded parts views of the various SPT (Strip Sander excluded).

The Strip Sander apparently needs a special eccentric.
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nuhobby
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On the topic of optional large-offset Bandsaw eccentrics

Post by nuhobby »

Hello,

I am one of those who got the large-offset eccentrics for the bandsaw, and quit using them because of the "diving board" oscillation modes.

From responses here, it seems some users had that problem and some did not.

I wonder if the bandsaw wheel balance from machine to machine has any relation to this. My wheels have the precise milling at the bearings, and the precise milled-out materials near the outer rims for balancing (I saw this CNC milling machine in Dayton last weekend by the way), but you can notice a visible amount of wobble in the original rough-cast aluminum. That is, facing the Mark V front-on, viewing the bandsaw wheels on their edges, the top wheel-edge for instance has some left-right deviation in the metal during a rotation (although the rubber tire is placed on the wheel such that it has no left-right deviation at all).

Comments welcome,
Chris
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

dusty wrote:Let me restate my question from earlier in this thread.

Why would anyone want to replace Eccentric Mounting Tubes (5137779) with Adjustable Eccentric Mounting Tubes (555626)?

Either one can be used to mount the bandsaw (SPT) on the Shopsmith and if the eccentrics are adjusted properly the Shopsmith can be moved to the drill press mode without removing the SPT.

I don't believe Shopsmith has quit selling 5137779. In fact, 5137779 is listed as an integral part of the SPT in the exploded parts views of the various SPT (Strip Sander excluded).

The Strip Sander apparently needs a special eccentric.
I have come to realize that I am in total error in what I have stated here in this thread.

I cannot change to drill press mode with the band saw installed. The band saw table interferes with the way tube tie bar as it comes up.

I am able to raise the unit to drill press mode with the jointer mounted.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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JPG
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Eccentric Band Saw 'tubes'

Post by JPG »

Hopefully the following will clear up some confusion and maybe explain springboard comments.

[ATTACH]3293[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]3294[/ATTACH]

This is an 'ECCENTRIC COUPLER' one of a pair which is pn 555626. Notice it is NOT a TUBE but a solid bar 1 1/4" diameter. The standard issue 'eccentric tube' are diecast aluminum and are hollow except in the area of the 'offset'. I am assuming if you have a bandsaw, you already know what it looks like. Notice the bar connecting the two "tubes". It is made of(I believe) cold rolled steel. Compare them to the bars below.
[ATTACH]3295[/ATTACH]
These bars appear to be 'hot rolled' steel which is more easily deflected than cold rolled steel. ALL are 3/16" thick.

I purchased the set used. The cold rolled spacers were being used. For some reason the hot rolled spacers came with the set. They were in a 'factory sealed' plastic baggie and I assume never used. The date on the instructions in the bag were dated 4/02.

Here be MY conclusions. The original eccentric 'tube' set used the cold rolled steel spacers. Newer units apparently use the hot rolled steel spacers. I expect the newer hot rolled version to be more 'springy' than the older cold rolled steel ones.

I have NOT tried this out as once I found out the band saw with eccentric 'tubes' would NOT work on my power station(spt hub too far away from power station hub) I went back to the standard issue ones.

I want(ed) to be able to mount bandsaw on either ss or power station WITHOUT changing 'tubes'.

I do NOT yet know if older spacers result in springiness. Will post after I try it.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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hobbyist
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Post by hobbyist »

Ed in Tampa wrote:I think the extensions were made to the bandsaw set further away from the head stock to clear the new larger aluminum table. Something else I never got. I love my cast iron table.
Ed
There's an interesting story about the aluminum table clearance problem that I ran across in this blog...

http://shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot.com/2007/05/send-in-clones.html

Like others here, I also used the eccentric mounting tubes and was unhappy with the instability of these mounts. The instability actually inspired me to build a standalone base for my bandsaw :) .

Ray
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Post by kalynzoo »

Perhaps it is because I seldom cut long pieces of wood on the bandsaw, I have yet to have a problem. I leave the bandsaw attached to the SS, and change to drill press mode regularly, only having to remove the bandsaw fence. The way-tubes easily clear the bandsaw with the offset supports. Since my organizational skills probably leave much to be desired, I find I am constantly changing from horizontal to vertical and back, as I decide to drill another hole, or cut another piece. Anyway, guess I've been lucky.
Gary Kalyn
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

kalynzoo wrote:Perhaps it is because I seldom cut long pieces of wood on the bandsaw, I have yet to have a problem. I leave the bandsaw attached to the SS, and change to drill press mode regularly, only having to remove the bandsaw fence. The way-tubes easily clear the bandsaw with the offset supports. Since my organizational skills probably leave much to be desired, I find I am constantly changing from horizontal to vertical and back, as I decide to drill another hole, or cut another piece. Anyway, guess I've been lucky.
No 'springboard' effect?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
pascalore
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No need for eccentrics

Post by pascalore »

I have the original off-set mounts for my band saw and find that the table gets in the way when trying to raise the motor to drill-press mode. Solution is to tilt the band saw table to 45 degrees. When you raise the motor, place your left hand on the top of the band saw as you lift and the end will miss the table. It may be that those of you who don't have the problem of interference may not have the lower tubes seated all the way in on the left side giving you a little more room (Just my opinion).:rolleyes:

P.
Serial #12-21-93 - 510 with Bandsaw and 4" Jointer:)
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