Bill your kind offer is most appreciated by me and others on this site.
Any help in these matters certainly won't go astray.
Please count me in if you are about to distribute your knowlege.
Thank you in advance.
Regards
Sandy in NZ
1955 Mark V
Moderator: admin
1955 Mark V oiled and (almost) ready to go!
Thanks for all your help. I have taken apart the headstock(partially), discovered no access hole under the nameplate or holes for oiling. I will take pictures of the procedure I followed and submit them.
I have now discovered that the speed control dial doesn't stop at fast or slow. I will have to research this but I suspect it I will have to do some adjustments.
Dave
I have now discovered that the speed control dial doesn't stop at fast or slow. I will have to research this but I suspect it I will have to do some adjustments.
Dave
You might want to watch sawdust session 17. I thats the one where Nick replaces the speed control and then adjusts it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
[quote="billmayo"]The Shopsmith, Nick is repairing/rebuilding, is a 1960s with the 1 1/8 HP motor and Poly-V drive.
The 1955 Mark V headstock has no access hole in the headstock, no oiling holes in the sheaves and has a Gilmer drive with a clutch that can be tested for slippage which should prevent tearing the teeth off the Gilmer belt if the quill stops suddenly. The motor is also a 3/4 HP motor. The Speed Control Dial has a different type of spring to prevent the speed control dial from vibrating and making noise. I cut an access hole in the headstock and drill oiling holes in the sheaves. I rebuild the clutch for 15-20 ft pds of torque before slipping. I have pictures of all the steps I do if anyone is interested.
Hi: Pictures of the early machine and the steps that you used to get it working would be very helpful, I usually work on cars with gas engines, not electric, and have a Haynes manual for the torque specs and tips as a hobby. I will send photos of the engine "motor" as soon as I can get my camera's electrical battery charger working!
Thanks in advance for the help!
Yellowruf
The 1955 Mark V headstock has no access hole in the headstock, no oiling holes in the sheaves and has a Gilmer drive with a clutch that can be tested for slippage which should prevent tearing the teeth off the Gilmer belt if the quill stops suddenly. The motor is also a 3/4 HP motor. The Speed Control Dial has a different type of spring to prevent the speed control dial from vibrating and making noise. I cut an access hole in the headstock and drill oiling holes in the sheaves. I rebuild the clutch for 15-20 ft pds of torque before slipping. I have pictures of all the steps I do if anyone is interested.
Hi: Pictures of the early machine and the steps that you used to get it working would be very helpful, I usually work on cars with gas engines, not electric, and have a Haynes manual for the torque specs and tips as a hobby. I will send photos of the engine "motor" as soon as I can get my camera's electrical battery charger working!
Thanks in advance for the help!
Yellowruf