Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
JPG is/does, but the jointer? - not very well over there. I neglected to mention the 'elevation' and 'rpm' issues also.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Turning the wrong way on the right side
Turning the wrong speed (need the middle shaft at the 1.6 overdrive)
Wrong position (needs the middle shaft)
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
You can accomplish that with a reversible headstock. Put the jointer where it belongs, the bandsaw on the opposite end and run it in reverse. Easy with a powerpro, and some traditional head stocks can be converted to run in reverse. (I think)
ChrisNeilan wrote:You can accomplish that with a reversible headstock. Put the jointer where it belongs, the bandsaw on the opposite end and run it in reverse. Easy with a powerpro, and some traditional head stocks can be converted to run in reverse. (I think)
Only if internal wiring is both accessible and then modified and an external reversing switch added.
Longer mounting tubes also.
Then there is the 'elevation' change.
I really think it is not worth the effort.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have one of these that I occasionally use on the Power Station to mount the Main Table there. I use stop collars to control table height.
YES
I assume the outer tubes fit the trunion? Did you fabricate it? Great idea. Now I'm thinking I could use a set of extension table legs and add tubes for the table. Or maybe even add tubes to an extension table to accept the main table.
I have one of these that I occasionally use on the Power Station to mount the Main Table there. I use stop collars to control table height.
YES
I assume the outer tubes fit the trunion? Did you fabricate it? Great idea. Now I'm thinking I could use a set of extension table legs and add tubes for the table. Or maybe even add tubes to an extension table to accept the main table.
To the shop...
THANKS Dusty.....
The inner pair of tubes were inserted where I would normally install an extension table. I happened to have a pair of legs from a damaged trunnion that I used for this application. Extension table legs would work the same way and would provide "built-in stops.
Yes, the outer holes fit the trunnion (main table legs).
What I have was made from either 2 or 3 pieces of MDF laminated together but for what you are contemplating I would suggest using solid hardwood.
If you are considering this approach, I made a couple small changes to make it easier to use. A couple of bolts with wing nuts make it easy to secure the table height. Stop collars still advised.
Attachments
Extension Table_Main Table Adaptor rev1.png (62.73 KiB) Viewed 4989 times
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
If you are building a mini, you've got the main table and wouldn't use it without a jig like Dusty's and you aren't using the carriage at all.
But why couldn't you remove the carriage lock from the carriage(don't need it) and drill 4 holes clean through the carriage and secure some studs (lock nuts both sides of the carriage casting), then attach it and level it like an extension table using an extension table base (# 239 here http://www.shopsmith.com/service/mark/5 ... iagram.htm)?
Then you could mount the "Extension Carriage" (TM ) in the SPT/Extension table holes in the base casting and have the full functionality of raising and lowering and locking the main table via the carriage's crank (510/520) or lever (500, Greenie, Goldie) and the carriage's table height lock? Yes, the carriage would sit a little higher than when mounted on the way tubes, but I'll bet it would sit low enough that you could still use the main table and the table saw.
Dang, now I want a mini just to try this!
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!