With the tension released, you should be able to detect any play by pulling up/pushing down on the rod.
Yeah, that list of parts looks about right to get in there. There goes my Sunday and lord knows what else!
Question, should I be able to determine if there is play in those parts BEFORE I go to the trouble of disassembling it just by releasing tension and doing the push/pull on the rod?
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
With the tension released, you should be able to detect any play by pulling up/pushing down on the rod.
Yeah, that list of parts looks about right to get in there. There goes my Sunday and lord knows what else!
Question, should I be able to determine if there is play in those parts BEFORE I go to the trouble of disassembling it just by releasing tension and doing the push/pull on the rod?
That be why I mentioned it. If no play, we need to look elsewhere and not take it apart. Realize the rod passes through several parts.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Well, I unscrewed the rear tension cam/lever and immediately discovered at least part of the problem.
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I have a hard time believing that this would bend before the cam/lever would break, but hey, I'm no engineer. Is it possible that over tensioning caused this?
There also does seem to be play in the rod, so I suspect I will find the roll pin wear issue JPG had.
So, it is time to disassemble and figure out what other parts I need to order and hope the mothership can get em to me.
To be continued....
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Further disassembly reveals that the tension pin holding the tension rod has NOT damaged the arm casting. Slop must solely be in the tensioning rod itself, which needs replacing anyway because it is bent.
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IMG_2795.JPG (145.75 KiB) Viewed 2716 times
Waiting on replacement parts from Shopsmith.
Maybe that will give me time to ponder how I'm going to drive out that tension pin. I can't take the arm over to my bench because the arms is held in to the base by another tension pin (part 16A, which connects the arm to the piston for the air pump as seen here http://www.shopsmith.com/service/scroll ... iagram.htm). I can't figure how to drive either pin out and am afraid of whacking on the arm in place.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
reible wrote:Could that damage have happen in shipping? Was this unit shipped that you know of?
Ed
I presume that, like most Shopsmith equipment, it was shipped to the original owner. I'm at least one and possibly two owners removed from that (I forget). Suffice it to say, I picked it up in person off of CL (a year ago).
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Hold a heavy object against the arm, but do not obstruct pin exiting.
Use a pin punch to drive the pin through the arm. It may scarf the inside of the hole depending upon the wear.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange