Sanding station design question.
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Re: Sanding station design question.
I can provide any length way and bench tubes for shorter than the regular length. Close to a hundred rebuilt MINIs, SHORTYs, 510s & 520s were the primary Shopsmiths that I sold for more than 10 years. no 500s as Craig's List had plenty of them.
- dusty
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Re: Sanding station design question.
cooch366 wrote:I know pictures or it didn't happen. Here is my soon to be sanding station.
Picked up my fourth ( yes I know I have a problem). It's a 510 came with a jointer and some extras. Needs some TLC.
So the next project begins. Who needs woodworking projects when you can have Shopsmith projects. Maybe after this is done I'll build something out of wood.
Is the aluminum knurled knob on the spindle backwards? If yours is not then mine are!
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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cooch366
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Re: Sanding station design question.
It WAS, great call..... THANKSdusty wrote:
Is the aluminum knurled knob on the spindle backwards? If yours is not then mine are!
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cooch366
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Re: Sanding station design question.
algale wrote:
Is it going to have an "Extension Carriage" (TM)?
No go on the "Extension Carriage".
The extension table would have to be cut to allow for the main table raise/lower wheel, and there are additional flanges on the carriage that have to be taken into account. Could be made to work but too much of a hack and work to gain a few inches.
So I'm going to go with John's design and cut 18" off the way tubes. A big plus is a full function shorty.
Thanks for all the ideas. It was fun and worth a shot.
Steve
- dusty
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Re: Sanding station design question.
I cut 16" off of mine and I have ever since wished that I had taken only 15" (maybe even 14"). I have a full function Mark V but there are times when changing functions gets to be a pain. Not a real bad pain but frustrating. Example: I often have to remove the drill chuck to tilt the table.
Yeah, John says he could have cut a little more off and still have a full function Mark V and I say I wish I had taken a little less off. Either way, you get a shorty.
Decisions, decisions. it really all depends on what you feel that you need most.
Yeah, John says he could have cut a little more off and still have a full function Mark V and I say I wish I had taken a little less off. Either way, you get a shorty.
Decisions, decisions. it really all depends on what you feel that you need most.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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cooch366
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Re: Sanding station design question.
I went with cutting 15". The way I was figured it, and John can correct me if I'm wrong, is 15" will allow the sanding disk to be positioned on the left side of the table (not using the table slot) while still being hooked up to a SPT on the left. I don't believe I could do that if they were cut at 18".dusty wrote:I cut 16" off of mine and I have ever since wished that I had taken only 15" (maybe even 14"). I have a full function Mark V but there are times when changing functions gets to be a pain. Not a real bad pain but frustrating. Example: I often have to remove the drill chuck to tilt the table.
Yeah, John says he could have cut a little more off and still have a full function Mark V and I say I wish I had taken a little less off. Either way, you get a shorty.
Decisions, decisions. it really all depends on what you feel that you need most.
THANKS for all the input, ideas, and suggestions
Steve
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ERLover
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Re: Sanding station design question.
That was the same thought process when I cut my greenie and could still have room to put the extension table on for that little extra support for what ever. I did I think 14 or 14.5, just a bit of cushion!!!
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
Re: Sanding station design question.
I will check if I get time tomorrow. My wife has a dental appointment.cooch366 wrote:I went with cutting 15". The way I was figured it, and John can correct me if I'm wrong, is 15" will allow the sanding disk to be positioned on the left side of the table (not using the table slot) while still being hooked up to a SPT on the left. I don't believe I could do that if they were cut at 18".dusty wrote:I cut 16" off of mine and I have ever since wished that I had taken only 15" (maybe even 14"). I have a full function Mark V but there are times when changing functions gets to be a pain. Not a real bad pain but frustrating. Example: I often have to remove the drill chuck to tilt the table.
Yeah, John says he could have cut a little more off and still have a full function Mark V and I say I wish I had taken a little less off. Either way, you get a shorty.
Decisions, decisions. it really all depends on what you feel that you need most.
THANKS for all the input, ideas, and suggestions
Steve
However I don't know why you would want to run the sanding disk on the left side of the table instead of the slot. If you want a bigger table add a floating table with connector tubes on a 510/520. If it is a 500 slide everything to the right end and use the aux table.
I have absolutely no idea what Dusty is talking about with the drill chuck and tilting the table.
On my shorty (18" short) I keep a sanding disk on the right side in the table slot with the lower guard installed for dust collection.
When I install an SPT, belt sander, strip sander, etc. I just slide the whole carriage, disk sander and head stock to the left to connect the SPT. The SPT speed does not mater to the sanding disk unless I am going to use it. I still have the disk sander all ready there just by changing the speed if necessary.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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ERLover
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Re: Sanding station design question.
I may be missing some thing, I have the table up to the disc, not in the slot, just have to move the head stock to go to the belt sander hook up a few inches, without moving the table too, but I do not have a SS type DC for the disc, a home made and it is in the garage so not too worried about the dust anyway, not like in an enclosed shop.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
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cooch366
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- Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:48 pm
- Location: North Central Massachusetts
Re: Sanding station design question
Once again you are correct. I did not even think of the 510 extensions. I have never used them. But that is another solution.jsburger wrote:[
However I don't know why you would want to run the sanding disk on the left side of the table instead of the slot. If you want a bigger table add a floating table with connector tubes on a 510/520. If it is a 500 slide everything to the right end and use the aux table.
I have run the disk on the left side of the table, and my thinking was to be as flexible as possible . But my thinking was with the experience I've had and not having used the extensions it never entered my mind. That's what is so great about these forums, you get so many different ideas from so many people.
So I guess for 3", I'll leave it for the time being. After all what's 3" (ask my wife
Thanks again John for your help and ideas....
Steve