I've tried using a spiral blade in the past. I know some people swear by them, I swear at them. I found the blade very difficult to control as the slightest distraction creates an unforgiving cut. Personally, following the advise given by someone on the web a long time ago, I insert the blade backwards. The teeth facing away from me, and pull the wood into the cut. It does take a bit of practice but on fret work I find I can use a 2/0 blade with a great deal of precision. (of course if the precision is not close enough I blame the blade!) Anyway, before you use a spiral on a partially completed project that you have put hours of loving attention into, try using the blade on a piece of the pattern glued to some scrap.
Looks like a wonderful project. Do post the completed art.
I'm right with you on the spiral blades, I'll put one in to try and after about a minutes use swap it back to a regular blade. The idea is great but the mess ups you can make with little twitches is truly amazing.
Neal
Mark V 500, Mark V 500 Power Pro, SS mounted Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Nova G3, Universal Tool Rest
neal560sl wrote:I'm right with you on the spiral blades, I'll put one in to try and after about a minutes use swap it back to a regular blade. The idea is great but the mess ups you can make with little twitches is truly amazing.
It's not my first choice, but spiral will be a necessity.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
neal560sl wrote:I'm right with you on the spiral blades, I'll put one in to try and after about a minutes use swap it back to a regular blade. The idea is great but the mess ups you can make with little twitches is truly amazing.
It's not my first choice, but spiral will be a necessity.
IMAG0394-1600x900.jpg
First, cut ALL the excess wood off the blank yp to about 1/2" of the outside of the pattern.
The SS scroll saw has a 20" throat, the longest and the biggest table in the industry. As long as your work piece is less than 40" long (38" would be better) you just have to cut one half of the pattern and then turn the stock around and cut the other half.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
That looks really good! I've ordered some of the magical "Flying Dutchman" scroll saw blades that many on the Forum swear by and I'm going to try to make friends with my scroll saw.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Whatever blade you are using did not cause you to 'goof'!
Keep your patience working.
P.S. It may be easier to position the large piece rotated 90 and use the main table and floater for support to the right side.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Whatever blade you are using did not cause you to 'goof'!
Keep your patience working.
P.S. It may be easier to position the large piece rotated 90 and use the main table and floater for support to the right side.
I used a standard skip tooth blade for that. I always run on "a" speed for fret work. I actually tried to listen to head phones this time, hated it. Needed to hear the blade cutting to stay accurate.
I will use the table extension for extra support, thanks for the advise.
