lilgodwin, I told you so, and John B has not chimed in yet!!!!
I agree a hand held Coping saw is the best example of tension on both sides of the blade, and a Sabre saw powered was a trade name, that is used loosely, like Roller Blade skates, all else had to call them in line skates, Trade name/copy rights.
So to your corners men, no hits below the belt
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
ERLover wrote:lilgodwin, I told you so, and John B has not chimed in yet!!!!
I agree a hand held Coping saw is the best example of tension on both sides of the blade, and a Sabre saw powered was a trade name, that is used loosely, like Roller Blade skates, all else had to call them in line skates, Trade name/copy rights.
So to your corners men, no hits below the belt
I am not sure anyone has disagreed really. Jpg was right, its misuse of the terms. However, there may be good "what is better"
Oh Bieve, I agree, I dont scroll or jig, so I have just the knowledge here form who does, and most floats in/floats out till I get into it if I would ever do. I have my Bosh "sabre" saw but that cant do anything like you guys do on a scroll or the other one, jig, for that intricate work.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
The Greatness officially starts
Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
For many years, I had an Magna jig saw set up with out the upper arm and upper chuck being attached. I use 2 jig saw blades tied together on the top end with a small clamp for a really stiff jig saw blade. I used this jig saw just like a hand held jig saw by moving the wood or material being cut, not the tool. There was no arm to limit the size of any circle. Sometimes, I used a large piece of plywood bolted to the jig saw table for a stable surface for several large unique jobs.
I also used this jig saw to horizontally align the headrest SPT mounting holes with the headstock accessory hubs so any SPT only had to moved vertically to align the power coupling. I did this alignment by playing with the headrest bench tube clamp bolts and the tie bar position on the way tubes.
The old-style jigsaw has another unique capability. You can install small "parallel machine files" instead of jigsaw blades, and it makes a dandly little filing machine for cleaning up fine details. The files are available in a variety of shapes (see this post for details). And like Bill said, you can remove the arm/top for this operation, so horizontal capacity is unlimited.
I don't have an SS scroll saw, but I suspect that an old jigsaw set up for filing would be just the ticket for cleaning up scroll-sawing imperfections. I don't use mine much, but it's mighty handy to have when you need it.
BuckeyeDennis wrote:The old-style jigsaw has another unique capability. You can install small "parallel machine files" instead of jigsaw blades, and it makes a dandly little filing machine for cleaning up fine details. The files are available in a variety of shapes (see this post for details). And like Bill said, you can remove the arm/top for this operation, so horizontal capacity is unlimited.
I don't have an SS scroll saw, but I suspect that an old jigsaw set up for filing would be just the ticket for cleaning up scroll-sawing imperfections. I don't use mine much, but it's mighty handy to have when you need it.
I would like to see the difference between a fine reversed toothed blade vs the machine file. I know you can pick up files for the scroll saw a well, but his much better would it look?
BuckeyeDennis wrote:The old-style jigsaw has another unique capability. You can install small "parallel machine files" instead of jigsaw blades, and it makes a dandly little filing machine for cleaning up fine details. The files are available in a variety of shapes (see this post for details). And like Bill said, you can remove the arm/top for this operation, so horizontal capacity is unlimited.
I don't have an SS scroll saw, but I suspect that an old jigsaw set up for filing would be just the ticket for cleaning up scroll-sawing imperfections. I don't use mine much, but it's mighty handy to have when you need it.
I would like to see the difference between a fine reversed toothed blade vs the machine file. I know you can pick up files for the scroll saw a well, but his much better would it look?
I'm no scroll sawyer, but I just Googled scroll saw files. As near as I could tell, the "files" sold for those are not really files, but rather are bonded-abrasive strips. All the ones I could find appeared to be either flat or round. The reviews on Amazon were terrible for one brand, with the biggest complaint being rapid loading and abrasive wearout.
The parallel machine files that I referred to are real files, made of hardened steel. I don't imagine they would ever dull if used only on wood. They come in a variety of shapes, to fit most any feature detail. And with a jigsaw, you don't have re-thread the file for each interior feature. Just lift the workpiece, place the next hole over the file, and start smoothing. I've actually done a bit of that, and the files were plenty rigid for smoothing 3/4" hardwood words that my kids had "scrolled" on the jigsaw.
I think I bit off more than I can chew, haha, but I get the gist of it. I appreciate the quick responses, and plethora of information, thoughts and opinions.
I have both. The jig saw was one of my early purchases after getting my first machine, that and the belt sander. I have had a number of jig saws and they work pretty well for a lot of projects. I liked the idea of stacking blades together to make a wide cut, think notches. I don't think I'd like to be without one in my shop.
Here is a post I did a few years back about sanding on the jig saw:
I do have a set of the original files as well so that was a nice find off ebay some years back.
The scroll saw is nice as well and it will take finer blades then the jig saw so that alone makes it very useful. The selection of blades is wider now because of the wide spread use of scroll saws. I have even used fret saw blades, they don't last long but that is the nature of the game.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
ERLover wrote:lilgodwin, I told you so, and John B has not chimed in yet!!!!
I agree a hand held Coping saw is the best example of tension on both sides of the blade, and a Sabre saw powered was a trade name, that is used loosely, like Roller Blade skates, all else had to call them in line skates, Trade name/copy rights.
So to your corners men, no hits below the belt
Nothing to add. JPG and others nailed it.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
