SS Jointer?

[garys]

Where are you located? Your profile doesn't say. Watch for used ones in your area. Not too long ago I saw a used Shopsmith jointer for sale around here for $40. If you can find one in that price range, you can't go wrong.

[GlennS]

Although I do own a SS jointer, I get better results by taping (double sided) a known straight-edge proud of a rough edge and then run that straight edge against the table saw fence to clean up the opposite edge. Then, run that edge against the fence and, voila, two straight and parallel edges. With one straight edge and minor imperfections on the opposite edge, the conical disk sander is very effective in cleaning up a rough or burned edge.

[ChrisNeilan]

I picked up a Shopsmith jointer a few years ago on EBay. It receives the most use of any power tool the shop other than my Powermatic lathe. I use it to square boards and turning spindles. Very well built and better than any bench top jointer I've seen. I have a large Rigid freestanding jointer that I almost never use because I prefer the Shopsmith's. The blades are easy to sharpen and set up providing you have the right tools and are patient.

[jsburger]

Although I do own a SS jointer, I get better results by taping (double sided) a known straight-edge proud of a rough edge and then run that straight edge against the table saw fence to clean up the opposite edge. Then, run that edge against the fence and, voila, two straight and parallel edges. With one straight edge and minor imperfections on the opposite edge, the conical disk sander is very effective in cleaning up a rough or burned edge.

I am not sure why that would be true. Seems like a lot of work with double stick tape and all.

Just joint one edge straight on the jointer. Put that edge against the saw fence and cut just proud of the final width. Then joint the sawn edge to get the final width. Two perfectly smooth and parallel edges. No need for a conical sanding disk or anything else. Really confused.

[JPG]

Confused? Me too!

Why would one end up with "A straight edge and the other with minor imperfections". They should be the same(same tool marks etc.).

It is called a jointer because it creates edges for joining. Saws simply do not do that, although current day saws could be said to do so.

The conical disc sander is a good substitute for a jointer, but setting it properly is tricky. 'Finish' is not as good as a sharp jointer.

[wa2crk]

Hi
Personally I like my SS jointer. Yes, it is small but also it more rigid than other larger jointers. I also happen to prefer cast iron for woodworking tables. When they are clean and waxed the stock moves over them very easily with very little drag. Except for flattening a board the majority of the things that I run across the jointer are no more than 2" thick, mostly in the 3/4" variety.
Bill V

[Beave2012]

I didn't like my SS jointer too much earlier. Felt underpowered, but then I took it off a power stand and onto my mark v. OK now I like it.

[ERLover]

I agree and some disagreements on the last 4 post, a good TS blade, exp Freud's glue line rip blade is as good as any joint edge.
I bought a conical disk this fall, with the right grit, a smooth edge for a glue up.
If a jointers blades are not set perfect or fed to fast, can have chatter marks depending on how hard the wood is.
If in fact a glue up edge is a bit course, the glue fills in the minute imperfections. With that said I use Tight Bond II, and I have it in the regular and the dark, the dark dries a bit darker then unfinished cherry, the regular dries a bit yellowish if I remember right, I dont use it as much as the dark, since I work with cherry, walnut and white oak finished to the Fumed color.

[jsburger]

Confused? Me too!

Why would one end up with "A straight edge and the other with minor imperfections". They should be the same(same tool marks etc.).

It is called a jointer because it creates edges for joining. Saws simply do not do that, although current day saws could be said to do so.

The conical disc sander is a good substitute for a jointer, but setting it properly is tricky. 'Finish' is not as good as a sharp jointer.

I totally agree JPG with one exception.

I think it is more the blade than the saw. I used a Forrest WWII on my SS for years. Joint one edge and saw to width. It was extremely hard to randomly pick up one of those pieces and immediately see which edge was jointed and which edge was only sawn. You really had to look. The same is true on my Powermatic PM2000 now with the same blade.

[ERLover]

I do think the original post/thread was about "do I need a jointer and what are my options to create a smooth edge"