Meet the newest member of my family

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tomsalwasser
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by tomsalwasser »

oldiron wrote:Extend your quill far enough so the spindle is free of the drive sleeve and see if the drive sleeve has the roughness. If the drive sleeve spins smoothly, It's the spindle bearings and these are very simple to replace. Mike
Thanks Mike. Let me count the bearings based on the exploded view linked in mickeyd's restoration post. There are 2 bearings in the drive shaft assembly 102-15x. There is 1 bearing in the gauge collar assembly 102-3x and 2 bearings in the spindle and quill assembly 102-16x. Did I count correctly?

Let's start with the drive shaft assembly 102-15x. I studied mickeyd's post and pictures but I'm still unsure. With the quill removed do I just tap that assembly out from the inside with a hammer and hardwood dowel or some such thing?
exploded view 10er.jpg
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JPG
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by JPG »

102-3x??? Don't think so!

The drive sleeve assembly is retained by a set screw that holds the spacer between the two bearings. I do not recall any other means of securing it. Pushing from the inside is likely required to get the assembly out the rear. Crud will resist removal.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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tomsalwasser
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by tomsalwasser »

JPG wrote:102-3x??? Don't think so!
Oh good! One less bearing to buy :D Thanks JP
oldiron
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by oldiron »

Tom, The headstock only has 4 bearings. Two on the spindle and two on the drive sleeve.

Remove the allen screw which retains the drive sleeve assembly and using a large wood dowel from the inside, drive out the drive sleeve.

Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required.

The spindle bearings are very easy to change. You just need a solid vise and some plain washers as Skip shows in his video...

Mike
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tomsalwasser
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by tomsalwasser »

oldiron wrote:Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required. Mike
Thanks Mike. Removal of the drive shaft bearings (102-15X) now seems doable, but how about re-installation? Do they need to be pressed in place?
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JPG
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by JPG »

tomsalwasser wrote:
oldiron wrote:Just a quick note, If the drive sleeve bearings spin freely and smoothly, I wouldn't change them unless you feel confident with the procedure required. Mike
Thanks Mike. Removal of the drive shaft bearings (102-15X) now seems doable, but how about re-installation? Do they need to be pressed in place?
Yep, gently with pressure only to the inner race. Easy access!!!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
oldiron
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by oldiron »

Tom, As JPG mentioned, The drive sleeve needs to be carefully pressed back into the headstock casting. You only need to tap on the outer bearing race to press it back in.

I also apply a very small amount of Indian Head type gasket sealer to the outside of both bearings races upon installation which will prevent any possible bearing spin inside the headstock bore.

Keep in mind, The drive sleeve bearings are basically "slip fit" back into the headstock.

Mike
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skou
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by skou »

ERLover wrote:Tom, thanks for rescuing one!!! :D You wont regret it. As JPG once said, guards, we dont use freaken guards. I see the upper ones all the time on Ebay, lower ones rarely, now get a Speed Changer and feel that warm wet feeling.
I've got an upper guard or 3.

The next time I install them, will be the first time.

Yes, 57, and STILL have all my digits, and MOST of
my intelligence. (Yes, more digits than intelligence!)

Tom, I may have some more experience with the Model
10 than most. (ER Lover may have me beat, though)
Let me know what I can do to help you. I do have a
set of metal legs as well as the casters not attached to
a machine. You'll pay shipping, plus a dime or 4.

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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skou
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by skou »

oldiron wrote:Tom, As JPG mentioned, The drive sleeve needs to be carefully pressed back into the headstock casting. You only need to tap on the outer bearing race to press it back in.

I also apply a very small amount of Indian Head type gasket sealer to the outside of both bearings races upon installation which will prevent any possible bearing spin inside the headstock bore.

Keep in mind, The drive sleeve bearings are basically "slip fit" back into the headstock.

Mike
Mike, once removed, the drive sleeve, with all its bearings will
slip back in, with NO issues. Provided the headstock is clean.

When I re-assemble a headstock, the Indian, as well as his Head,
are NO WHERE around.

You need to be able to simply assemble this tool, as well as disassemble
it. I work on cars 40 hours a week. Hans didn't build a car!

steve
10 ER, stripped down.
Basic 10ER, Parts machine. Will be a semi-dedicated drill-press machine.
10 ER, a "survivor" of the trailer fire, in the back yard, needing restoration. Has a Mk5 headrest. Finally, stripped down.
Numerous parts, for Model 10 stuff. Except for lower saw guard, A and B adapters, I've got it.

Looking for one more, or some 9 inch extension table raisers.
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rjent
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Re: Meet the newest member of my family

Post by rjent »

skou wrote:
ERLover wrote:Tom, thanks for rescuing one!!! :D You wont regret it. As JPG once said, guards, we dont use freaken guards. I see the upper ones all the time on Ebay, lower ones rarely, now get a Speed Changer and feel that warm wet feeling.
I've got an upper guard or 3.

The next time I install them, will be the first time.

Yes, 57, and STILL have all my digits, and MOST of
my intelligence. (Yes, more digits than intelligence!)

Tom, I may have some more experience with the Model
10 than most. (ER Lover may have me beat, though)
Let me know what I can do to help you. I do have a
set of metal legs as well as the casters not attached to
a machine. You'll pay shipping, plus a dime or 4.

steve
Steve if you are serious and Tom doesn't want them, I am very interested in the casters. This "new" 50 model that I just acquired in San Antonio doesn't have casters. I would love to find a set for the metal legs.

Anyway, thanks in advance if you want to let them go. Just PM me or post here with what you want for them .... :D
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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