Band Saw Frustration And Seeking Blade Recommendati

[algale]

From the time I first mounted it, my 5/8ths Shopsmith resawing band saw blade has always insisted on pointing noticeably to the left from the operator's vantage point (I think I said right in a recent post, but I meant left). This has been an annoyance but not a source of trouble because once I have adjusted my band saw fence (a Kreg) for drift, the blade has always cut as straight as an arrow on the kind of stock I typically cut on a band saw, say up to an inch and a half in height.

I have an upcoming project where resawing up to the 6 inch capacity of the band saw is a necessity. But when I try to resaw taller stock, say up to 5 inches tall, I'm getting a concave cut once the blade gets a few inches in. I am running at the Shopsmith-specified speed (slow ~700 RPM) and not forcing the stock through. Tension is set for a 1/2 inch blade (which is what Shopsmith says is the appropriate setting for this 5/8ths blade). Even giving it another full turn on the tension gauge, I am still getting a concave cut.

I have torn down and rebuilt the band saw twice in the last two days. I checked the tension gauge to make sure it was properly set, made sure there was adequate cant on the upper wheel, adjusted the autotrack bearings so the blade is riding in the groove between the two bearings and the groove is parallel to the blade, rechecked the the upper back up bearing to make sure it is running parallel to the blade and is riding about 1/64th from the back of the blade (when it isn't cutting) and I rechecked to make sure the the lower back up bearing is in contact with the blade at all times. I've adjusted the Cool Blocks and snugged them up to the blade making sure they aren't distorting the blade's travel in any way. And I've reread numerous threads on the Forum about the band saw.

In short, pretty much everything you can do to the dang thing I have done. The 5/8ths blade still points left, still cuts straight as an arrow on thin stock (once the fence is adjusted for drift) and yet makes concave cuts when resawing.

I'm thoroughly out of ideas so I am going to try another brand blade for resawing. Probably Wood Slicer or Timberwolf. Taking recommendations.

[jsburger]

I have never used a SS blade for resawing. I have a Timberwolf which works great. Then the Woodslicer came out with all the hype. So I bought one. To be honest I can not tell any difference between the two and the Timberwolf is half the price (I have not checked in a few years).

I would go with the Timberwolf. If you order directly from Suffolk Machinery (the maker) they are a lot cheaper and they know what a SS is.

[rjent]

I know some of the purists/safety guys are going to cringe, but I really crank down on the tension and feed REALLY REALLY slow.

I was having the same problem until I made the above adjustments.

FWIW

[algale]

I know some of the purists/safety guys are going to cringe, but I really crank down on the tension and feed REALLY REALLY slow.

I was having the same problem until I made the above adjustments.

FWIW

Curious what size/brand blade do you use and if you can quantify how far beyond the specified tension you go?

[neal560sl]

John, what Timber wolf blade did you get for resawing? I would like to try a different blade than the SS 5/8 blade, I do a lot of 6" stock and they don't seem to stay sharp for very long and then I get a lot of cupping as well. I have touched them up with my dremmel and then they cut true again except for the excessive drift I always get even with brand new ones.

[reible]

Seems like a rash of bandsaw posts.

I've posted this else where but for completeness I post here too.

I like the wood slicer blade and keep buying them since they work for me.

For set up I would direct you to this:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/band ... -tips.html

Ed

[rjent]

I know some of the purists/safety guys are going to cringe, but I really crank down on the tension and feed REALLY REALLY slow.

I was having the same problem until I made the above adjustments.

FWIW

Curious what size/brand blade do you use and if you can quantify how far beyond the specified tension you go?

They are 5/8ths and SS. I bought two of them, when the first one wouldn't really cut 5 to 6 inch resaw, I changed to the other blade and experienced the exact same problem. I then came across Matthias Wandel's video on the Physics of resawing:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fK9m5PadmiI[/youtube]

He is not one of my favs LOL because he is anti SS, but I found his video and I found it kind of enlightening.

It does seem to work for me. I have been lately using a 1/16th inch TS blade on the 10ER and doing the both sides method and finishing the cut on the bandsaw. That works the best so far.

Anyway, that is what I have found ....

[jsburger]

John, what Timber wolf blade did you get for resawing? I would like to try a different blade than the SS 5/8 blade, I do a lot of 6" stock and they don't seem to stay sharp for very long and then I get a lot of cupping as well. I have touched them up with my dremmel and then they cut true again except for the excessive drift I always get even with brand new ones.

It is 1/2" and I believe it is 3 TPI. Call Suffolk Machinery. They will answer your resawing questions for the SS band saw. The price will be about half the resellers price.

[ERLover]

A nice site for blade selection.
http://timberwolfblades.com/Blade-Selector.php
As I just posted on another thread set your guide height, tighten the blade and string it like a guitar string, if it aint humming for a second or two, it it aint tight enough.
Cupping can come from not having your bearing supports close enough to the back of the blade

[algale]

Posting a link to a Shopsmith document (I think that's Nick Engler in the photos) discussing cupping. He advocates more tension -- basically says as long as the spring isn't fully collapsed you can apply more tension. http://www.woodshoptips.com/tips/011303/011303pt2.pdf