Headstock slipping
Moderator: admin
Re: Headstock slipping
Rjent
The PP headstock is about 20 pounds heavier than the conventional headstock. I have not had mine slip while drilling 120 counter bored holes and an additional 120 through holes during a Christmas toy project. But I was running at a much slower speed!
You may want to check that both wedges are contacting each tube the same. You may have to reposition the wedges according to the manual.
Bill V
The PP headstock is about 20 pounds heavier than the conventional headstock. I have not had mine slip while drilling 120 counter bored holes and an additional 120 through holes during a Christmas toy project. But I was running at a much slower speed!
You may want to check that both wedges are contacting each tube the same. You may have to reposition the wedges according to the manual.
Bill V
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Headstock slipping
Thanks for that reminder. I had forgotten that little detail. I fought this problem long ago when I learned of the solution only because I had a forum member come visit while I had the headstock removed.wa2crk wrote:Rjent
The PP headstock is about 20 pounds heavier than the conventional headstock. I have not had mine slip while drilling 120 counter bored holes and an additional 120 through holes during a Christmas toy project. But I was running at a much slower speed!
You may want to check that both wedges are contacting each tube the same. You may have to reposition the wedges according to the manual.
Bill V
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Headstock slipping
Sorry if I added confusion to your frustration!
I am amazed that the wedges etc. could deform the way tubes.
Perhaps I need experience with 'new' tubes.
With a little luck the markings will reveal the table is slipping.
An adjustment could possibly fix that.
I am amazed that the wedges etc. could deform the way tubes.
Perhaps I need experience with 'new' tubes.
With a little luck the markings will reveal the table is slipping.
An adjustment could possibly fix that.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Headstock slipping
I have one of my powerpro's mounted as a drill press and it stays that way 24/7. I have not noticed any slippage as of yet. It does have resurfaced wedges and I did make sure they were installed correctly.
Now I have not used the machine as a router so that is different.
After testing to see just what is moving you will have a better idea of what area to attack.
You didn't mention your shop temperature which could effect how well you tighten them and how well wax applies and buffs off........ It was sub 40 degrees while I was out doing a few things in my shop yesterday and I noticed how it felt to change the table height in that temperature. Cold metal makes for cold hands in no time.
There are several other temporary fixes that could be tried. Some of which have already been mentioned
If it turns out the headstock is moving..... I know it is pain to check the wedges and even more to replace/resurface them on the powerpro but in my opinion that should be done before resorting to other fixes.
Ed
Now I have not used the machine as a router so that is different.
After testing to see just what is moving you will have a better idea of what area to attack.
You didn't mention your shop temperature which could effect how well you tighten them and how well wax applies and buffs off........ It was sub 40 degrees while I was out doing a few things in my shop yesterday and I noticed how it felt to change the table height in that temperature. Cold metal makes for cold hands in no time.
There are several other temporary fixes that could be tried. Some of which have already been mentioned
If it turns out the headstock is moving..... I know it is pain to check the wedges and even more to replace/resurface them on the powerpro but in my opinion that should be done before resorting to other fixes.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
- rjent
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
Re: Headstock slipping
OK, it is the headstock. I ripped a 34 inch 2x4 (supposed to be a 36" but was too short some how
) on the 10ER into 6 slices, and left my router setup like I had left it yesterday. Used the marker idea on the tube then routed a 5/8's x 3/16 groove the full length on all of them. I would cut a groove on one and then checked the HS. On the 5 one, the HS had slipped about 1/16th. Hadn't moved until that particular piece. Had a knot in it and I really felt the chatter. So it is the vibration like I had thought. Since this is a new machine, I am a little burned that the wedges need to be modified???
I am going to build a stop that was suggested to hold the HS in place for now, but talk to Dave (or someone) to see what they suggest.
Kind of disappointed in ShopSmith right now.
BTW, I have done a lot of drill press work with this machine and it always holds, just when routing (and obviously critical) when this is noticeable.
Maybe Matthias Wandel is right ....
I am going to build a stop that was suggested to hold the HS in place for now, but talk to Dave (or someone) to see what they suggest.
Kind of disappointed in ShopSmith right now.
BTW, I have done a lot of drill press work with this machine and it always holds, just when routing (and obviously critical) when this is noticeable.
Maybe Matthias Wandel is right ....
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: Headstock slipping
With this sort of problem, I feel that you should talk with someone other than Customer Service at Shopsmith. I would be looking to talk with an engineer.rjent wrote:OK, it is the headstock. I ripped a 34 inch 2x4 (supposed to be a 36" but was too short some how) on the 10ER into 6 slices, and left my router setup like I had left it yesterday. Used the marker idea on the tube then routed a 5/8's x 3/16 groove the full length on all of them. I would cut a groove on one and then checked the HS. On the 5 one, the HS had slipped about 1/16th. Hadn't moved until that particular piece. Had a knot in it and I really felt the chatter. So it is the vibration like I had thought. Since this is a new machine, I am a little burned that the wedges need to be modified???
I am going to build a stop that was suggested to hold the HS in place for now, but talk to Dave (or someone) to see what they suggest.
Kind of disappointed in ShopSmith right now.
BTW, I have done a lot of drill press work with this machine and it always holds, just when routing (and obviously critical) when this is noticeable.
Maybe Matthias Wandel is right ....
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
-
silenthope
- Gold Member
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 12:29 pm
- Location: Tucson, Arizona
Re: Headstock slipping
Forgive me for jumping in here, I'm no expert by far! Is there a way to setup your operation that doesn't require you to router from above? Is this an operation (routing with the headstock above the work) that SS endorses?
Just wanted to throw in an uneducated idea that might help "think out of the box"!
If I'm off track...let me know, and I'll shutup and color!
Just wanted to throw in an uneducated idea that might help "think out of the box"!
If I'm off track...let me know, and I'll shutup and color!
1955 Mark 5 SN-316919 (in pieces)
1956 Mark 5 SN-344051 (restoration in-work)
1962 Mark 5 SN-375717 (restoration in-work)
1956 Mark 5 SN-344051 (restoration in-work)
1962 Mark 5 SN-375717 (restoration in-work)
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Re: Headstock slipping
Routing 'from above' is the only way with a Mark 5/V.silenthope wrote:Forgive me for jumping in here, I'm no expert by far! Is there a way to setup your operation that doesn't require you to router from above? Is this an operation (routing with the headstock above the work) that SS endorses?
Just wanted to throw in an uneducated idea that might help "think out of the box"!
If I'm off track...let me know, and I'll shutup and color!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Headstock slipping
Yes the PP is advertised as being able to rout from above due to it's 10K RPM.silenthope wrote:Forgive me for jumping in here, I'm no expert by far! Is there a way to setup your operation that doesn't require you to router from above? Is this an operation (routing with the headstock above the work) that SS endorses?
Just wanted to throw in an uneducated idea that might help "think out of the box"!
If I'm off track...let me know, and I'll shutup and color!
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Headstock slipping
If all else fails or you need a temp. solution McMaster sells stop collars. They certainly will hold the headstock regardless of the wedges. But don't yell at me this is not an ideal solution.