Headstock slipping

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charlese
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by charlese »

reible wrote:So should all of us powerpro owners expect replacement 2.0 wedges?
Ed
I thought the upgrade DIY kit came with two new wedges. Mine did!

I was going to go to the PowerPro web site and include that information. However that site has been changed, and wedges don't show as an included part :confused:

Now I am thinking that maybe it was recommended to buy new wedges. I didn't add my new wedges, they are in a drawer, just in case they are needed. The old originals are still working.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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rjent
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by rjent »

OK, here is how I am setting up to do these grooves (that gave the problem) I do use the under table as well and of course don't have the problem.

Got a little burn in the beginning and you can see where it went through a knot (on purpose :) ) didn't slip and cut a perfect groove :/
router setup 04.jpg
router setup 04.jpg (342.75 KiB) Viewed 2029 times
Other pictures
router setup 03.jpg
router setup 03.jpg (317.01 KiB) Viewed 2029 times
router setup 05.jpg
router setup 05.jpg (344.58 KiB) Viewed 2029 times
router setup 06.jpg
router setup 06.jpg (344.39 KiB) Viewed 2029 times
Cutting a groove with a 3 blade slot cutter (1/4 inch) and the shaper fence
router setup 02.jpg
router setup 02.jpg (329.37 KiB) Viewed 2029 times
Do these look correct, any glaring setup errors?

And FWIW, the headstock didn't slip and felt pretty good going through the knot (of course) :rolleyes:

Soooo this is what I am going to do. I will build a "stand" that will support this monster of a headstock to stabilize it on critical work (or any work for that matter). The over table system works perfectly most of the time, but sometimes it just doesn't. A stand with prevent me from over tightening the lock, and give me confidence that the cut will be true. Not that big of a deal in the general scope of things.

I am open to critique and suggestions if anyone sees need for improvement.

Thanks all for responding! :D
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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JPG
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by JPG »

Only thing I would 'critique' is the extension of the quill so far out.

Also how cum the dust 'collector' is covered in dust? :D
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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rjent
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by rjent »

JPG wrote:Only thing I would 'critique' is the extension of the quill so far out.

Also how cum the dust 'collector' is covered in dust? :D
Wow, I hadn't thought of that. Do you think it makes it less accurate? To be honest, I probably (not carelessly done) was just too lazy to lift the table :D

The DC was running during the cut, the feathers were just covering the hole ..... :\
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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JPG
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by JPG »

rjent wrote:
JPG wrote:Only thing I would 'critique' is the extension of the quill so far out.

Also how cum the dust 'collector' is covered in dust? :D
Wow, I hadn't thought of that. Do you think it makes it less accurate? To be honest, I probably (not carelessly done) was just too lazy to lift the table :D

The DC was running during the cut, the feathers were just covering the hole ..... :\
It will 'amplify' the effects of any slop in the quill.

With overhead routing, I think overhead collection is required since the workpiece will be in the way of airflow. ;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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rjent
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by rjent »

JPG wrote:
rjent wrote:
JPG wrote:Only thing I would 'critique' is the extension of the quill so far out.

Also how cum the dust 'collector' is covered in dust? :D
Wow, I hadn't thought of that. Do you think it makes it less accurate? To be honest, I probably (not carelessly done) was just too lazy to lift the table :D

The DC was running during the cut, the feathers were just covering the hole ..... :\
It will 'amplify' the effects of any slop in the quill.

With overhead routing, I think overhead collection is required since the workpiece will be in the way of airflow. ;)
Ah but your Immenseness, the DC port is attached to the bottom of the insert, so enlighten me .... :confused:
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....

"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
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JPG
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by JPG »

You yourself have already illuminated the subject.

You covered it up!


This 'might' help.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... shield.htm

Or a semi-rigid hose above.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by JPG »

╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by charlese »

I was going to mention the shield, but you've already seen that.

The shield will keep your fingers safe!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
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reible
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Re: Headstock slipping

Post by reible »

In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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