Headstock slipping

[JPG]

In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

It is possible to feed the quill and lock it with one hand. Helps to set lock partially so it drags slightly or holds but is not completely tight(something I do often).

[reible]

It is possible to feed the quill and lock it with one hand. Helps to set lock partially so it drags slightly or holds but is not completely tight(something I do often).

Just proves you are one in million and left handed??

And just how much routing do you do with your shopsmith? I don't do much because I just don't find trying to do operations like this very safe or easy and since I many other tools to do the job like my OPR I use them.

Sorry but when routing there is way to many things to keep your mind on and keep safe for me to do it that way, and I'm right handed so trying to hold the lever and twist a knob while holding it and plunging into the work piece with my left hand is not something I would ask anyone to do.

This is another case where the lack of a good depth setting method makes the shopsmith less then wonderful in this application. We also lack a good method of making very minor depth setting changes.

Ed

[rjent]

In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

Ed, I am babysitting a 12 week old German Shorthaired puppy today and have my hands full. I am very interested in your post, but I really can't respond right now LOL. Hopefully, if I am still sane, I will be able to discuss your points

[JPG]

No I am not left handed.

But I do tend to be somewhat ambidextrous.

I did not emphasize sufficiently the setting of the quill lock to 'hold' but not lock as the quill is advanced.

That allows the quill to be adjusted and hold position until locked fully.

That leaves the other hand(typically the 'right' one) to prevent the workpiece from drifting.

Does require faith in the quill lock 'half' lock.

If the workpiece is held it will not move as the quill is advanced and the depth will hold until fully locked.

After all the 'lock' is merely a spring washer so it has varying degrees of 'drag'.

[rjent]

In the cut pictured you are doing a plunge cut, from what I can see you must have a plunge bit?

Now I have to ask, do you have three arms? One to hold the stock, one to advance the bit into the wood and then the third one to lock the quill in place. Like wise at the end of the cut, one holding the stock, one loosening the quill and one letting the quill rise.........Short of having three arms this is just plain unsafe.

I would never attempt that cut with the shopsmith in over head mode. This is where the shopsmith over head router comes in and works like a champ. You have one hand to control the wood and then the quill feed is done with the other hand and a twist of the feed lever locks the bit at depth. You have to be in control of the work piece at all time.

Under table works fine like this by dropping the work piece over the bit but you need to set up stops at each end or at least mark the fence to determine the entry and exit locations.

It also looks like the cut is maybe 1/4" deep, that is about the limit I would go on a single pass and depending on the wood that might be too much.

I don't see any indications in the cut of vibration. Were you experiencing vibration during the cut?


How hard is it to push the stock against the finger boards when feeding without the bit in the wood? You can make them too tight is why I ask. This can hinder a uniform feed among other things.

From the photo it looks like you might be feeding the wood with the use of a push block and then somehow switching to the other side to pull it???

You need to make a push block with a "V" cut in the bottom and a end piece so you can trap both down and against the fence. On that short of work piece it can hold it against the fence, down to the table and feed at at once. This is a really good way to have good control while feeding, especially on shorter pieces. Short of this two push blocks would work but it is not as nice or easy to do. Remember that you want to control the work piece at all times and keep your fingers out of the way.

A few other people have pointed out the excess quill extension and looking to to guarding up the cutter. There is a saying that the only good routing is safe routing.

I take it that you were not able to reach shopsmith today? Still might be a good idea to give them a call if you can work it in.

Ed

OK, the damn dog went home LOL

My procedure with a "plunge" routing is I set the depth lock by kissing the bit on the work piece, and adjusting the depth ring to 0 then back off the amount I want to cut (usually 2 to 3 16ths). Turn the machine on and while holding the piece with my left hand I use my thumb to slightly loosen the quill and advance the bit to the stop (while the cutter enters the work piece) then again with my thumb lock the quill. I my mind, worst case scenario is that the quill will lift the bit away from the work piece (to date, that has not happened), I then used push blocks/sticks/hands and guide the work piece through the cut. I have made some pretty deep mortises doing the above. Are you saying that I shouldn't do it that way (I am glad JPG kind of alluded to the same method )

That cut was done in two passes, and 0 vibration. It is most likely that the vibration/chatter is my fault, but I still think that the headstock shouldn't slip when the vibration/chatter happens ... I will call SS and see what they say.

Thanks for the replies guys, all info is welcome info for a newbie like me.

I am amazed at to what I am able to make with these machines and you guys help ... who knew I could do remedial woodworking ...

[wa2crk]

My wife and I baby sat a dog once. It was named Sasha. When she went home I said to my wife 'I know why they named her Sasha"
Wife said why?
"because she was sasha pain in the A--!!"
Bill V

[JPG]

My wife and I baby sat a dog once. It was named Sasha. When she went home I said to my wife 'I know why they named her Sasha"
Wife said why?
"because she was sasha pain in the A--!!"
Bill V

See how easy thread branches occur!