When using the conical disk along with the planer/jointer and the work table at 0° (no tilt) you certainly do not get a 45° bevel.
The instructions that came with the Planer/Jointer Knife Sharpening Jig (555471) reads as follows:
Quote: 1. Mount the worktable on your Mark V, then move the worktable to the far right end of the way tubes and lock in place. The worktable must be set to 0° (parallel to the way tubes)".
NOTE
When using the Knife Sharpener with the Conical Disc, the worktable MUST NOT be tilted 4 degrees toward the disc surface as described in the Conical Sanding Disc owner's manual. (End Quote)
Please, don't tell me you have been following these instructions for years and have had not trouble. You may not have problems but then you are not following these procedures.
I too have been using the jig along with the conical disk for years but I have not been following these instructions.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I been using the flat sanding disk and a home made blade holder. The holder had a 45° slot and the table was set to 0 tilt.
A problematic method at best.
Since acquiring a conical disk, I made the longer jig in anticipation of someday getting a planer. I subsequently got the planer. At least I think that was the sequence.
By not tilting the table I end up with about a 42° angle.
No I have not measured it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:Missing so far here is the angle the blade is mounted into the cutting head. Angle of attack do to speak.
Not that it is anything we can change, but it does enter into back side clearance 'figuring'.
At shallow depth cutting I would assume the 'attack' angle is slightly greater than the blade mounting angle.
FWIW SS procedure does not specify any resultant angles.
Yes that is the other part of the equation that I forgot about. So again, SS produced a sharpening guide that works with their instructions.
Just use it and it works perfectly.
Not if you follow their procedures verbatim. Do you not tilt the table and if you do to what angle do you set it? The procedure does not tell you!
The instructions read as follows:
1. Mount the worktable on your Mark V, then move the worktable to the far right end of the way tubes and lock in place. The worktable must be set to 0° (parallel to the way tubes)".
Last edited by dusty on Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
The angle that the leading edge of the blade makes with the workpiece at the point of contact.
90° and you are 'scraping'.
Less than 90° and you are slicing.(like a plane of all things)(bevel down no less).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Anybody determined the blade angle as it is mounted in the SS jig? I thought Dusty had, but he deleted that with the initial post so I am not sure.
Oh and the blade 'side' taper angle.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG wrote:The angle that the leading edge of the blade makes with the workpiece at the point of contact.
90° and you are 'scraping'.
Less than 90° and you are slicing.(like a plane of all things)(bevel down no less).
Is this what you mean? Note that the taper is not "near zero". Actually, it is more like 1.4°. The jig angle upon which the tapered face of the blade rests is at an angle of 43.5° with respect to the worktable surface.
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A Cutter Head with blade and wedge angle of attack.png (52.91 KiB) Viewed 2837 times
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
The next question that you are likely to ask is what is the taper angle on the conical disk. And the answer is approximately 3.15° as measured by my AngleCube.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Anybody determined the blade angle as it is mounted in the SS jig? I thought Dusty had, but he deleted that with the initial post so I am not sure.
Oh and the blade 'side' taper angle.
The SS blade sharpening jig holds the blade at 45 degrees. Subtract the conical sander taper from that for the sharpened blade angle. 41 or 42 degrees, would be my guess. This is with the table flat, of course.
