Worth working with or send to the dump???
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Re: Worth working with or send to the dump???
i finally found the set screws. and yes, they are also frozen in place. i tried to remove the pin so I can get closer to the set screws, and yes, the pin is frozen in place also. waiting on Kroil to work its magic at the moment.
Re: Worth working with or send to the dump???
got some other pics of it
Re: Worth working with or send to the dump???
[quote="reubenjames"]TooTall,
I have a lawn tractor that needs what you've got! I'm taking your word as gospel. Is this the right stuff (vs. the "heavy duty" variety) before I go ahead and order it?
Ruben James,
Sorry I didn't notice it was you that took my advice on the fluid.
The MP from the can you showed, will restore all those rusty pieces in the posted pictures and in record time. Glad somebody is receptive and appreciative.
Cheers,
Terry
I have a lawn tractor that needs what you've got! I'm taking your word as gospel. Is this the right stuff (vs. the "heavy duty" variety) before I go ahead and order it?
Ruben James,
Sorry I didn't notice it was you that took my advice on the fluid.
The MP from the can you showed, will restore all those rusty pieces in the posted pictures and in record time. Glad somebody is receptive and appreciative.
Cheers,
Terry
-
everettdavis
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2163
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2014 11:49 am
- Location: Lubbock, TX
Re: Worth working with or send to the dump???
Insert a long allen wrench into the setscrew cup and take a small pad sander without paper, maybe a piece of cloth over it, and bring the edge of the pad sander in contact with the edge (not top of) allen wrench. The vibration transferring down the shaft into the setscrew can help the magic happen as it loosens areas of rust letting the penetrant do its work.
Also, if your penetrant isn't flammable and mostly cleared out, you can also take a sacrificial long allen wrench and heat it up in the flame of a propane torch etc. til it glows and then insert it into the cup of the allen screw.
The heat transfer from the center of the cup will go outward causing the screw to expand ever so slightly.
You can gently try to get it to move, while the hot allen wrench is inserted, but don't force it. It's not as strong as it was before you heated it. (You can re-temper it later)
If it's still stuck, when it cools, it shrinks again and that may break up segments of the rust in the threads. If not enough to move the screw, perhaps enough to get penetrating fluid into those crevices. Evapo-Rust works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Making even the slightest amount of additional space via heat / cooling may aid penetration of the Evaporust if you're using that to penetrate when you reapply.
Everett
Also, if your penetrant isn't flammable and mostly cleared out, you can also take a sacrificial long allen wrench and heat it up in the flame of a propane torch etc. til it glows and then insert it into the cup of the allen screw.
The heat transfer from the center of the cup will go outward causing the screw to expand ever so slightly.
You can gently try to get it to move, while the hot allen wrench is inserted, but don't force it. It's not as strong as it was before you heated it. (You can re-temper it later)
If it's still stuck, when it cools, it shrinks again and that may break up segments of the rust in the threads. If not enough to move the screw, perhaps enough to get penetrating fluid into those crevices. Evapo-Rust works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Making even the slightest amount of additional space via heat / cooling may aid penetration of the Evaporust if you're using that to penetrate when you reapply.
Everett