Carter Stabilizer Blades Suggestions

[rlkeeney]

I just ordered a Carter Stabilizer for my bandsaw and now I'm looking at blades to use with it.

I would like blade recommendations from anyone who owns a Carter Stabilizer.

It will mostly be used for cutting toys from 2x4 or other 1.5 inch thick materials. Possibly some stack cutting too.

[reible]

I'm guessing you are intending to use a 1/8" blade and as such you will have to really shop around to find anything but a 14 tpi. I tried locally a few years back and no one had anything but 14tpi.

I'm assuming you are talking for your shopsmith bandsaw? When you set up make sure the stabilizer gets the blade vertical. If you have not shimmed your table then it will do just that...... a bonus as you will.

Ed

[rlkeeney]

Yes, it is a Shopsmith bandsaw. As far as I can tell 1/8 only comes in 14 tpi. I found these that all will do about what I want. If possible I would like to be able to turn a 1/4 inch radius. It looks like the 1/8 inch blade one the only one that will do that. Unless the Stabilizer will let me turn tighter.

Timber Wolf® 1/8" x 14HP
Blade Designation: Scrolling

Width: 1/8"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 14
Tooth Design: HP (high performance)
Blade Thickness: .025
Kerf: .042
Tooth Hook Angle: 0°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 7/32”

Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 1/8” – 2” Softwood 1/8” – 1 1/4”
Plywood, MDF & other Composites: 1/4” – 1”
Soft Metal & Plastic: 1/4" - 1/2″

Timber Wolf® 3/16" x 10RK
Blade Designation: Scrolling or Curve, Template and Pattern Cutting

Width: 3/16"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 10
Tooth Design: RK (raker)
Blade Thickness: .025
Kerf: .042
Tooth Hook Angle: 0°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 3/8”

Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 1/4” – 2 1/2” Softwood 1/4” – 1 1/2”
Plywood, MDF & other Composites: 1/4” – 2”
Soft Metal & Plastic: 1/4" - 1/2″

Timber Wolf® 1/4" x 10RK"
Blade Designation: Curve, Template and Pattern Cutting

Width: 1/4"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 10
Tooth Design: RK (raker)
Blade Thickness: .025
Kerf: .042
Tooth Hook Angle: 0°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 5/8”

Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 1/4” – 3/4” Softwood 1/4” – 1/2”
Plywood, MDF & other Composites: 1/4” – 1”
Soft Metal & Plastic: 1/4" - 1/2″

[jsburger]

Per the Carter web site, the purpose of the stabilizer is to allow the blade to twist slightly compared to standard blade guides. This allows for tighter radius' than normal. I have one but have not used it in quite a while.

As far as blades, I would certainly go with Timberwolf. IMO they are as good as it gets. Also, if you buy direct from Timberwolf (Suffolk Machinery) they are cheaper than anywhere else I have found.

[rlkeeney]

I'm thinking I should I should go with a Timberwolf 1/8 inch and see if it works for me. If not then the 3/16 or one of the 1/4 inch blades.

I'm a bit apprehensive about cutting with such a small blade. I've rarely used anything smaller than 1/2 inch.

[jsburger]

I'm thinking I should I should go with a Timberwolf 1/8 inch and see if it works for me. If not then the 3/16 or one of the 1/4 inch blades.

I'm a bit apprehensive about cutting with such a small blade. I've rarely used anything smaller than 1/2 inch.

Go for it. Just take it easy in the beginning until you get a feel for it. Don't be intimidated buy a narrow blade. Just play with it for a while before you start an actual project.

[reible]

You may want to get at least two blades to play with. Say the 1/8 and the 3/16 just so you have something to compare. It is also likely that you may well brake one easily on early attempts.

Ed

[rlkeeney]

I can cut toys out of 2x4 on my scroll say wit a #5 skip tooth and get square edges. I don't think taking it easy on the band saw is going to be much of a problem for me. I will be very gentle and let the blade do the cutting.

[rlkeeney]

I ordered these two blades:

Timber Wolf® 1/8" x 14HP
Blade Designation: Scrolling
Width: 1/8"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 14
Tooth Design: HP (high performance)
Blade Thickness: .025
Kerf: .042
Tooth Hook Angle: 0°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 7/32”
Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 1/8” – 2” Softwood 1/8” – 1 1/4”
Plywood, MDF & other Composites: 1/4” – 1”
Soft Metal & Plastic: 1/4" - 1/2″

Timber Wolf® 3/16" x 10RK
Blade Designation: Scrolling or Curve, Template and Pattern Cutting
Width: 3/16"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 10
Tooth Design: RK (raker)
Blade Thickness: .025
Kerf: .042
Tooth Hook Angle: 0°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 3/8”
Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 1/4” – 2 1/2” Softwood 1/4” – 1 1/2”
Plywood, MDF & other Composites: 1/4” – 2”
Soft Metal & Plastic: 1/4" - 1/2″

I suspect the 3/16 will be the go to blade for the 1.5 inch cutting but if it will work the 1/8 inch should give me a smother cut and will have a tighter turning radius. It looks like a coin toss at this point.

[charlese]

I've found the set of the teeth do a lot to determine the "smallness" of radii they will allow. This is because widening out the kerf allows the back of the blade to move within the cut.

Of course, with a wide kerf, you have to saw outside the line. This won't work with things like puzzles.