Technique for cutting beveled finger joints on SS

[jsburger]

Let's see.

Is a 'hammered' thing not something that HAS been hit with a hammer?

A hammer ding is what results when something was hammered.

A hammer handle is what is inserted in the hammer head to provide a place to grip it while it is hammering.

Yes I fergit about them funny(ier) shaped dulcimers.

And yes our common language is full of idiosyncrasies and far too many instances of common misapplication of them words.


So does one call a tympani a hammered drum?

I submit that a drum is hammered by definition be it by a stick or by hand. How about hammered paint for a SS. No hammer involved.

[charlese]

Let's see....
So does one call a tympani a hammered drum?

Probably so! Unless it is a cymbal-- or one of those hollow boxes.

But back to the finger joints - - There are quite a few finger joint router bits -- If you have a PowerPro, but not a router, your should be able to make some.

[JPG]

While rambling about musical instruments, a piano has hammers
(felt tipped). Sometimes thumb tacks are inserted into them.

Now about them mallets used to strike strings/wood blocks.

[dusty]

The subject WAS cutting mitered joints.

"Technique for Cutting Beveled Finger Joints on SS".

I wish that I could help with the problem. I can cut finger joints but the beveled part has me clueless and the idea of using these joints on a dulcimer is beyond my apprehension.

Pictures would help but not just more pictures of hammer dulcimers. Pictures or sketches of the joints as being employed.

However, if I read the post correctly - the task is to do this on a Shopsmith and not necessarily how to cut finger joints.

[JPG]

In the spirit of getting back on topic, I offer the following.

This is all conjecture since it has been proven I did not know what a hammered dulcimer is.

I assume the 'bevel' has to do with the odd corner angle(s).

That requires cutting the finger joints with the work piece at an angle from vertical consistent with the desired corner angle.

I would cut them 'long' and trim after assembly.

Other than that I think it straight forward.

Build your own jig is a given here.

[reible]

When I picture finger joints I think of joints that look like what are made with finger joint router bits. See:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss ... outer+bits

I know that to a lot of people the terms are interchangeable. The tools to do them are not.

Box joints work well to connect well boxes......... the cuts are in the end grain and thus are strong. Now if you wanted to make a joint along the long grain sides you will have a problem because you are leaving joints with only grain running across not in the same axes as the "finger". The fingers are not strong in that direction. Yes there are ways to get around this and yes you might get away with it you can get it put together and glued without damaging anything.

[This is where I wish I had a surface pro 4 and I could do a quick pen sketch right here on the screen and this would be a lot clearer to everyone.... but not in the budget yet]

Now when the edges are not square it gets even more interesting like when you make a tray with sloping sides. In that case you need to hold the wood at the angle of the joint to make them fit, again it can be done but is not the simplest method.

So we really need to know more details to say how easy this would/will be on a shopsmith on its own.

Ed

[Dseils]

There is a way to do a finger joint combined with a mitered joint. It is a fairly complex piece of joinery. Before I can offer you a solution I would need to know what tools you have. The box or finger joint can be modified so the top and bottom of the joint ( the last set of fingers on either end ) are mitered so the top and bottom of the joint will have a mitered appearance. It would become very complicated to do on all six sides. A possible solution is to assemble the box with mitered joints on all sides and then add decorative splines on all eight facets which is relatively low tech in comparison. The splines could be straight or dovetailed depending on your preference. As I said your power tool inventory is a place to start.
Paul

I own a Mark V 500 SS with Iron bandsaw. I also own a shop built router table with an Original Incrajig fence system. I am generally inclined to build a jig set to the proper angle for the joint, clamping it to the guide fence and clamping the bevel-cut stock to the jig to hold it securely. I'm imagining that milling the joint with the table would be cleaner and more accurate than doing the operation on the saw table, though the Incrajig fence system could be used on the table saw as well.

[Dseils]

Hammer Dulcimer.

Think elongated but smaller width violin.

.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hammer+ ... 00&bih=744

Dusty, you'very got it correct. The case on the instrument I am building surrounds a support frame constructed rigidly of hard maple. So it is essentially a frame inside a box those sides are a bit under 4 in. Wide x 3/4. 2 of the sides are roughly 2 ft. Long. The top side of the box is about 21 inches in length and the bottom side of the box is about 48 inches long. The box and internal framework are glued to a plywood base. It is the ends of each of the sides of the case that I want to join with through finger joints which will be cut to a beveled end corresponding to the angles of the trapezoid they formed. This is mostly appearance as the hard maple framework provides more than adequate rigidity to the instrument. In most cases,just gluing up the hardwood case sides would be fine, but the fingers would look better. Since the strings stretched across the bridges produce over 1,300 pounds of force, the extra strength of the joints couldn't hurt! Soooo...that is probably more than you all would ever want to know about building a hammered dulcimer but perhaps you understand what I'm after!

[JPG]

I assume you are intending 'box' joints rather then 'finger' joints.(See Ed's previous post). Finger joints are used parallel to the grain(think molding splices). The joint will require inner surface of the 'holes' to be beveled as well as the ends of the 'fingers'.

This serves as a 'embellishment' to my previous post. Your last post explains the goal more clearly. Are all 4 'corners' a different angle?


P.S. I also assume 'vertical' sides. If 'sloping' that adds an entirely new set of 'problems'. I think router is the tool of choice.

[Dseils]

JPG: You are correct and I intended box joints. due to the fact that the side pieces are beveled at 15 degrees toward the outside along their length, I'm pretty sure that the appearance would not be what I want, but the jury is still out! I'll have to chew on it a bit more. I can see, though, that the router table would be best to mill the joints if I go that way.

thanks, everyone for the advice!