Jointer maintenance
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Jointer maintenance
I noticed that the video for setting jointer knives has been removed from the Shopsmith website. Does anyone have a copy/link to that video...or...is there now a better way to set your knives level with the outfeed table.
Thanks alot!
Frank
Thanks alot!
Frank
- JPG
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Re: Jointer maintenance
I don't think it was 'removed'.
It became incompatible IIUC.
It became incompatible IIUC.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Jointer maintenance
Well, okay. What methods are y'all using to set jointer knife blades on a Shopsmith jointer?
- JPG
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Re: Jointer maintenance
Do you not have manual/instructions?dafixer wrote:Well, okay. What methods are y'all using to set jointer knife blades on a Shopsmith jointer?
Probably more than you expected. Read it all and make your own judgement/decision. http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maint ... 18126.html
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: Jointer maintenance
Thanks. I read it all and will now re-read it and take down notes. I do have the manual but, wanted to get other opinions/ideas. Your link to the earlier post accomplished that.
Re: Jointer maintenance
The procedure in the manual works perfectly regardless of all the setting gauges out there and other opinions. In my opinion there is no reason to do it any other way. My results have been perfect. Besides, you don't need any other tool. Try the manual procedure and form your own opinion. After all the manual procedure has been around since day one and has never been changed.dafixer wrote:Thanks. I read it all and will now re-read it and take down notes. I do have the manual but, wanted to get other opinions/ideas. Your link to the earlier post accomplished that.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: Jointer maintenance
I think that using the manual, step by step, is good advice.
I've been having some issues with my jointed boards being a bit tapered on the edge thickness by about 1/8" difference along a 36" 2x4; (1-3/8" thick on one end and 1-1/4" thick on the other end. I want them all to be 1-3/8" thick.) Fortunately, these boards are being used to make work table legs and that 1/8" thickness doesn't throw out the use of the board. But, it still means I've got some adjustments to make before I mill boards for more fine work.
I use my jointer on a power station with casters on it and every time I lower the casters, the power station legs hit the floor hard. So, I think I've jarred something out of alignment and need to check not only the knives but, the depth of cut adjustment, fence alignment bar and power coupling alignment.
I've been having some issues with my jointed boards being a bit tapered on the edge thickness by about 1/8" difference along a 36" 2x4; (1-3/8" thick on one end and 1-1/4" thick on the other end. I want them all to be 1-3/8" thick.) Fortunately, these boards are being used to make work table legs and that 1/8" thickness doesn't throw out the use of the board. But, it still means I've got some adjustments to make before I mill boards for more fine work.
I use my jointer on a power station with casters on it and every time I lower the casters, the power station legs hit the floor hard. So, I think I've jarred something out of alignment and need to check not only the knives but, the depth of cut adjustment, fence alignment bar and power coupling alignment.
- JPG
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Re: Jointer maintenance
A jointer cannot make a board a constant thickness.(at least not very likely)dafixer wrote:I think that using the manual, step by step, is good advice.
I've been having some issues with my jointed boards being a bit tapered on the edge thickness by about 1/8" difference along a 36" 2x4; (1-3/8" thick on one end and 1-1/4" thick on the other end. I want them all to be 1-3/8" thick.) Fortunately, these boards are being used to make work table legs and that 1/8" thickness doesn't throw out the use of the board. But, it still means I've got some adjustments to make before I mill boards for more fine work.
I use my jointer on a power station with casters on it and every time I lower the casters, the power station legs hit the floor hard. So, I think I've jarred something out of alignment and need to check not only the knives but, the depth of cut adjustment, fence alignment bar and power coupling alignment.
That is a task for a thickness planer.
However technique will help/hinder that objective.
The workpiece needs to be examined carefully so as to determine the approach taken. It can be bowed(convex or concave) or 'shudder' twisted.
Improper pressure on the infeed/outfeed can also muddle things up.
Last but not least the table tops must be parallel.
Dropping off the casters is not likely to jar anything loose(unless already loose).
A resulting taper is not uncommon.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: Jointer maintenance
For setting jointer blades, I have a piece of 1/8'' plate glass, I put both tables at the same height, then put the plate glass on both with a set of Earth Magnets on top of the glass, it pulls the blade up to the glass, and then lock into place, then rotate to the next blade.
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. Albert Einstein
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Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.
The Greatness officially starts






Greenie, Grayling, SS stand alone BS and BS SPT, jointer and belt sander, 3 Ers with Speed Changers. I think those 3 cover my ER needs, and space for them.

- JPG
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Re: Jointer maintenance
And when do you set the height screws? Good if there are none. The SS jointer has them.ERLover wrote:For setting jointer blades, I have a piece of 1/8'' plate glass, I put both tables at the same height, then put the plate glass on both with a set of Earth Magnets on top of the glass, it pulls the blade up to the glass, and then lock into place, then rotate to the next blade.
I like the plate glass idea. Think the straight edge on edge is gooder!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange