Table Saw Blades

[jsburger]

@ Charlese > "Over 10 years, I have only found the need to sharpen my multipurpose blade once."

Reminds of when a was a youngen, my uncle got Popular Science and Mechanics. Back page always had an add for a carburetor that said you can get 30 days on a tank of gas. I asked my uncle how could that be? He said, "Just dont drive it"!!!!

That reminds me of what Mike Young said in the SS seminar in Salt Lake in November about his band saw blade. He didn't know how dull it was until he bought a new one (sharpening).

[ERLover]

@ Charlese > "Over 10 years, I have only found the need to sharpen my multipurpose blade once."

Reminds of when a was a youngen, my uncle got Popular Science and Mechanics. Back page always had an add for a carburetor that said you can get 30 days on a tank of gas. I asked my uncle how could that be? He said, "Just dont drive it"!!!!

That reminds me of what Mike Young said in the SS seminar in Salt Lake in November about his band saw blade. He didn't know how dull it was until he bought a new one (sharpening).

I work mostly with White Oak, Cherry, White Ash and Walnut, my TS is only 1HP, it lets me know when the blade is getting dull, Compound Miter Saw too.

[ERLover]

This is my favorite fro cross cutting BUT I do it on a Sliding Compound Miter Saw, which this blade is made for with a -5* Hook where on a table saw set up you dont need that -5* Hook.

Ohps, mom distracted me with a need. Here is the one for a Table Saw
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU88R010-10 ... 1_6&sr=8-6

Here is the one I use on my CPM Saw.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU91R010-10 ... 1_3&sr=8-3

[reible]

Well I don't know what to say but I disagree with Charlese post. I've been using glue line rip blades for some years now and they have worked fine for me. I no longer take the ripped boards to the jointer. What he said was true some years ago but no longer, well at least in my book.

I started by using one of the Freud blades then switched to Infinity and while I like the Infinity better the Freud did an adequate job. When you keep a sharp blade on the saw you get very little if any tearing and minimal compression, I'd say even less then a jointer produces. I believe the term is banishing and planers and jointers are both guilty of doing this. How ever sometimes it helps so it is not necessary a bad thing.

Now I personally like a very sharp blade and a clean blade. The very first time a blade comes in to contact with the work piece is is wearing and you can go a very long time before it gets to the point of being useless. The point one picks to say the blade is dull and or needs replacing/sharpening will vary. I'm sure we all differ on this and how much we will tolerate before we reach our limit. I know how I feel on the subject, can't say how another person feels about the subject but like I've said before I hate sanding and sharp blades help a lot in that department. Going as long as Charlese goes is not something I'd ever do, well unless I had to but certainly not willfully.

I also have no desire to sharpen my own blades, been there and done that in my early years with steel blades and never ever again if I can help it. I'd much rather have it done or even replace the blade rather then do it myself. Also there are health issues of grinding carbide.

I personally do not nor do I ever intend on using shopsmith blades again. Back in the 80's had two of them loose teeth for what I believe was no reason. I believe those were the only two blades I have ever put in trash. Perhaps it unfair of me but I have never had any other blade before or after ever have that happen. Even if someone were to offer a new shopsmith blade to me I wouldn't want it.....

Blade questions always invoke strong feelings and we all believe we know best and I guess we do in our own minds.

Ed

Please know there is not a single make of saw blade that will yield a good glue edge. Those folks that settle for "saw blade cut saw joints" are getting a glue joint that contains both compression wood and torn wood. These are not suitable for glue penetration. What is holding such a joint is those parts of the cut that are true slices of the wood fibers. Compressed or torn wood fibers do not give a good glue joint.

I've always used Shopsmith blades and have been satisfied. Glue joints are always jointed or planed.

My blade sharpener came from Harbor freight. You can find it on their web site. Although their description says they do not hold a 1 1/4" hole in the blade, the cone will clamp down on the Shopsmith blade with a little to spare.

Over 10 years, I have only found the need to sharpen my multipurpose blade once.

[ERLover]

Reible, I agree with you, on my TS I dont have the best Freud Rib line blade, the one just below it, and many times I dont joint before a glue up. I have to look at a low light angle to see any, if any blade/cut marks.
Also I clean my blades regularly in baking soda soak over night, and then a brass brush, in between sharpening, makes a big difference!!!! A 5-6 gallon plastic bucket top, without the hump in the center is perfect, about a 1/4" deep just mix up a 1/2 cup warm water with about 4 Table Spoons of Baking Soda in solution pour to cover the blade, next morning brush of the pitch, rinse and dry and wax. I bet with alot of conifer pitch would not be that effective, but I just manly cut hard wood.

[ERLover]

Charlese no disrespect intended, I agree with Reible on my experience also, I use Tite Bond II except for exterior projects then Tite Bond III even though they are not submerged, II would be fine, and never have had a edge glue up fail that was a rip line glue up. Including all my furniture I made for my abode, Select Red Cherry, end tables, coffee table, sofa table and entertainment center.

[ERLover]

More

[ERLover]

More I think

[ERLover]

Still looking

[ERLover]

another one maybe, that is it that I have here on this machine without going to Photo shop and go there. Well just a try, not my strong suite. No cant find photo shop, but I think I made my point, without embellishing my projects/craftmanship