Any Way to Improve This?
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Any Way to Improve This?
Made some adjustments yesterday. Miter slots have a 2/1000 variance front to back. The fence has a 19/1000 variance front to back. Nothing I do improves it.
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Re: Any Way to Improve This?
The miter slots at .002, I'd leave alone. Occasionally, I have managed to get the miter slots to .001 or even less per my dial indicator. But .002 is perfectly acceptable.
As for the fence, .019 is too much for my tastes. What did you try to do to make the adjustment? I don't have a 510 but I have to believe it is adjustable. My 520 certainly is.
As for the fence, .019 is too much for my tastes. What did you try to do to make the adjustment? I don't have a 510 but I have to believe it is adjustable. My 520 certainly is.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: Any Way to Improve This?
The tip you have on looks like it could slip in a groove which could account for that much difference. I don't know if you have a wider tip but if so I would change to that and recheck.
I would look for something like .005" as a maximum. I don't know which side you normally rip on but you want the "added" space on the out feed side to be on that side. If not then you could well be in kick back city being that far to tight.
The rip fence has adjustment screws that are loosened, which then will allow it to be adjusted to square and then tightened. Make sure the screw on the base of the rip fence is not contacting the tube (this if for off-setting only). I don't recall how the 510 is done and my 510 rip fence was scavenged so I don't have one to look at. I would think the manual would have instructions.
Ed
I would look for something like .005" as a maximum. I don't know which side you normally rip on but you want the "added" space on the out feed side to be on that side. If not then you could well be in kick back city being that far to tight.
The rip fence has adjustment screws that are loosened, which then will allow it to be adjusted to square and then tightened. Make sure the screw on the base of the rip fence is not contacting the tube (this if for off-setting only). I don't recall how the 510 is done and my 510 rip fence was scavenged so I don't have one to look at. I would think the manual would have instructions.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Re: Any Way to Improve This?
Unfortunately it narrower on the outfeed side, otherwise I'd live with it. The screw is not the issue.reible wrote: I don't know which side you normally rip on but you want the "added" space on the out feed side to be on that side.
Make sure the screw on the base of the rip fence is not contacting the tube (this if for off-setting only).
Re: Any Way to Improve This?
I checked it again using a feeler gauge to ensure it was on a flat surface. Same results. Then I reversed the fence with the same results (only on the infeed this time). Everything was the same with or without the feeler gauge. So, the problem is with the fence. Before I do something stupid is there an easy way to square that fence?
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Re: Any Way to Improve This?
Isn't the screw at the top of this photo for making alignment adjustments?
Roy
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Mark V/510, Mark V/500 with parts for 510 upgrade, bandsaw, jointer, belt sander, DC3300 w/1 micron bag
Sawstop 3HP 36" PCS w/router table insert
Home designed and built CNC router, another CNC router
Laser engraver
Way too much other stuff and not enough space
- JPG
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Re: Any Way to Improve This?
ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!!!!!! It is for biasing the fence(adjusting away from parallel).roy_okc wrote:Isn't the screw at the top of this photo for making alignment adjustments?
Those two at the center right are de ones.
Loosen them(considerable torque required).
Mount to table and tighten front clamp.
Move fence to parallel.
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Reaching the SS tool kit between the front rail and the table tighten the screw accessible. Recheck parallel.
Remove fence from table(being careful to not disturbe the alignment).
Tighten second screw.
Remount and verify alignment.
Remove and really tighten both screws.
Remount and verify alignment.
FWIW there are varying versions of the 510 fence, but the procedure is the same, only the screw mounting varies.
****** Tightening the rear clamp and rechecking for parallel MAY help prevent the alignment changing as the first screw is tightened.
Last edited by JPG on Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- Ed in Tampa
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Re: Any Way to Improve This?
I had two bent fences shipped that way from ShopSmith. Have you checked the fence for straightness? Put a known straight edge against the side of the fence and see if it is bent.
Re: Any Way to Improve This?
fixed it.
Re: Any Way to Improve This?
Best practices wood be to remove that setscrew.JPG wrote:ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!!!!!!!! It is for biasing the fence(adjusting away from parallel).roy_okc wrote:Isn't the screw at the top of this photo for making alignment adjustments?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob