Saw blade not coming off need suggestions

regnar · Post by **regnar** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:23 pm

Hey everyone, first post/question. I am restoring a Mark V and well the blade has been on the machine for 10 years. I removed the set screw and the sucker will not come off. I live by the saying if your using a hammer you must be doing something wrong. Well I gave it a couple of smacks with no luck. Here is a photo of what I am dealing with.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30519006@N08/2851239012/

dickg1 · Post by **dickg1** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:28 pm

I suggest setting your SS into the drill press position and use some penetrating oil.

Dick

regnar · Post by **regnar** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:35 pm

Thanks Dick, I should have said this in the original post but I used break free and squirted it into the set screw hole. I will try it in the drill press mode. It makes sense that it would do a better coverage area.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:58 pm

Start here, it should help you out with the restore.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm

Try "SOME" heat on the arbor and see if that help(NO oil present). If not, Since you have the set screw out, soak it all down with WD40, liquid wrench, or what ever penetrate you have. Then come back a couple hours later and soak it down again. The next day, rock the blade back and forth. See if you have any movement. You might have to just keep working on it, till it breaks free.

How old is that MK5?

Another idea here for you. Get a piece of PVC pipe big enough to roll the MK5 into it, and a five lb bag of potatoes. Cap off one end of the pipe, the other end install a screw cap. Roll the MK5 into it, throw in the bag of potatoes, close it up. Two weeks later open it up and all the rust should be gone.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:03 pm

Another thought. IF all else fails, try to loosen the nut first, use a hacksaw to cut a slot in the arbor, then pry the slot open with a old screwdriver.

regnar · Post by **regnar** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 3:05 pm

"How old is that MK5?"

I want to say it is the 1984 Model because it has a rough paint job and all the other year models have a smooth finish. It also has the 1 1/8 hp motor. My plan is to fully restore it along with all the accessories. The MK5 was sitting in a barn with a dirt floor and leaky roof. And the accessories were sitting in a carport underneath a tarp. This is in great sunny Florida where the humidity is always around 80% to 90%

I am going to try the potato's on the rails but I need to sand them down a little to be able to move/remove the head.

I have it soaking in BP so I guess will see what happens tomorrow.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:40 pm

I find this problem with most of the Shopsmiths I buy and some customer's Shopsmiths. Do not beat on the arbor with a hammer as it damages the quill bearing and can actually bend the quill shaft. I do not recommend using a pry bar or screwdriver between the spindle knob and the arbor as the same results can happen. I recommend borrowing, renting or buying a gear puller from Harbor Freight. I have used the 3 Piece Three-Jaw Puller Set ITEM 8832-9VGA $12.99 for quite a few years with no problems. Remove the swivel end on the 6" gear puller for this task. I use this set almost every week for some task.

I remove the nut from the arbor, slide it and the saw blade next to the quill. Then I use a gear puller with a 1/2" OD screw shaft so it fits inside the arbor and hook the gear puller legs/jaws on the arbor where the saw blade was located. I really tighten the gear puller screw and if the arbor does not move, then I tap the end of the gear puller screw a few times with a metal hammer and try again. I do use Kroil (http://www.kanolabs.com/google/) in the set screw hole a few times before and when using the gear puller. I have removed quite a few saw blade arbors this way. Kroil is by far the best pentrating oil I have found and really works well for separating rusty parts.

regnar wrote:Hey everyone, first post/question. I am restoring a Mark V and well the blade has been on the machine for 10 years. I removed the set screw and the sucker will not come off. I live by the saying if your using a hammer you must be doing something wrong. Well I gave it a couple of smacks with no luck. Here is a photo of what I am dealing with.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30519006@N08/2851239012/

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:22 pm

Would this be easier if the quill was removed from the headstock. If nothing else works you could possibly use heat and then change the bearings before putting it back together.

mtobey · Post by **mtobey** » Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:15 pm

Kroil is like magic. Judicious heat is likely to work. Use a small creme`brulee` butane torch so affected area is minimal. And for the worst, I think I may have every gear puller known to man except the ones for 24 foot high quarry trucks..jet

cityslicker2 · Post by **cityslicker2** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:46 pm

I've had success on other rusted parts using PB Blaster. I find it to work much better than anything else I've tried. Have not tried Kroil but hear it is pretty good also. Steve