Shopsmith chisels
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Shopsmith chisels
New member here looking for opinions on this set of Shopsmith chisels...
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/l_lathechisels.htm
I found a new set locally for $50.
My new Jet-1220 is still on lathe-away at the local Rockler's, so no big rush.
I was also looking at some of the sets from Penn State Industiies, trying to find a decent set to learn both turning & sharpening with.
I plan on starting with a few spindles, bowls and ornaments, but, you never know when the chips start flying...
ThankX all,
Ron
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/l_lathechisels.htm
I found a new set locally for $50.
My new Jet-1220 is still on lathe-away at the local Rockler's, so no big rush.
I was also looking at some of the sets from Penn State Industiies, trying to find a decent set to learn both turning & sharpening with.
I plan on starting with a few spindles, bowls and ornaments, but, you never know when the chips start flying...
ThankX all,
Ron
They sure work good enough for me! (Click on my avatar for an example) I was shown, at a "Traveling Academy" to put a sharper edge (less angle) on them than the factory grind. However they were very usable with the factory grind and honing. I'm now thinking of buying the hollow bowl set.
Some of the more accomplished turners may chime in here.
Do you have any Shopsmith tools?
Some of the more accomplished turners may chime in here.
Do you have any Shopsmith tools?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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My first turning was done on my shopsmith along with the spindle turning set from shopsmith. These chisels are made of high speed steel which everywhere I looked was the material of choice. I am very satisfied with the SS chisels and plan on getting the bowl turning set some day soon. I am currently building up my sanding capabilites so my money is going there right now. I really love turning wood it is very fun and you basically get instant gratification as it does not take too long to turn an object. Sharp tools make a big difference also. I hope this helps. Others here will have more information and opinions soon.
SS 500 upgraded to 510; SS bandsaw; SS jointer
SS Oscillating Drum Sander; Universal Lathe Rest;
lathe duplicatior, shaper fence and shapers; SS Belt
Sander
Jim
www.youtube.com/kd6vpe
SS Oscillating Drum Sander; Universal Lathe Rest;
lathe duplicatior, shaper fence and shapers; SS Belt
Sander
Jim
www.youtube.com/kd6vpe
[quote="charlese"]They sure work good enough for me! (Click on my avatar for an example) I was shown, at a "Traveling Academy" to put a sharper edge (less angle) on them than the factory grind. However they were very usable with the factory grind and honing. I'm now thinking of buying the hollow bowl set.
Less angle? Can someone show a picture of before and after for less angle, I Don't know if this means from vertical or horizontal.
Less angle? Can someone show a picture of before and after for less angle, I Don't know if this means from vertical or horizontal.
I have used the basic set of chisels that came with my shopsmith for most of my turning and am quite pleased with them. The key is to keep them sharp and like Chuck mentioned the angle of the blade makes a difference. Using the shopsmith sharpening guide, the recommendation I was given at a traveling academy by Mike Cobbs was 13 to the left for the roughing gouge(which is equivalent to a 32 degree angle) and 4 to the left on the bowl gouge(which is equivalent to a 41 degree angle). There is a table 24-1 in the 4th edition of power tool woodworking for everyone that shows the settings on the sharpening guide and what angle you would get. Once I had these angles set up on my chisels I set up my wolverine guide to make these angles using a slow speed grinder so I don't have to go from turning set up to sharpening set up on the SS. Since then I see some members have show a way to use the SS sharpening Jig on the other side of the headstock using the back of the sanding disk and a shop made jig platform to accept the sharpening jig. The sharpening jig I am referring to is item #555193. They also have a video you can watch to see how the sharpening is done. I also have the bowl set that shopsmith sells and are pleased with them as well. I have a special captive ring chisel from Sorby for making captive rings but for the rest of my turning, I feel the shopsmith chisels are fine. Also both the basic set and bowl set are on sale now which are a great savings. I have used other brand names in some turning classes I took at Woodcraft and didn't see any advantage they offer compared to the shopsmith brand. I also like the ease of changing speeds on the shopsmith without having to changes belts on pulleys.
Ron from Lewisburg, TN
What you'd do is regrind the tool, from let's say 45° to 40° or 35°. Which would make the bevel longer.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Well gk777, your welcome. Let me make it somewhere between less murky and sorta clear. 
"I Don't know if this means from vertical or horizontal."
I'm not sure what you mean by that.
But if you look at the area where the tool is ground, that's where you regrind it to a lessor angle. The gouge from SS, is ground from the factory at 45°, a lessor angle would be 35°. The ground area would be longer now, than before. This gives you less metal at the tip, so you can sharpen the edge sharper. Note also that since there's less metal backing it up, you'll have to sharpen it more.
This might help you, look at #8 on the blackboard.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... hisles.htm

"I Don't know if this means from vertical or horizontal."
I'm not sure what you mean by that.

But if you look at the area where the tool is ground, that's where you regrind it to a lessor angle. The gouge from SS, is ground from the factory at 45°, a lessor angle would be 35°. The ground area would be longer now, than before. This gives you less metal at the tip, so you can sharpen the edge sharper. Note also that since there's less metal backing it up, you'll have to sharpen it more.
This might help you, look at #8 on the blackboard.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... hisles.htm
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob