New bandsaw table not level
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
After investigating the problem the left rear quarterbof the table starts dropping off right at the cut in the table for the blade. Any way to adjust this?
Re: New bandsaw table not level
Just a quick check, but under the table between the two side of the blade cut out, there should be a metal tie piece. Usually have to remove that to take on/off blade then put it back on, is it possible that maybe that piece got bent or is missing or maybe one side has a washer the other doesn't some thing along those lines. No offence I only suggest it because the odds that your new table has the same problem has your old table are roughly like winning the lottery...lol...more likely it is something going on with setup, that you do or didn't do, I would check along those lines a missing washer, bolt missing anything like that.. I have an old Mark 500 with the iron table it is dead flat, yes it's a pain to remove that cross over piece every time I change blades, but I always do it and have never had a problem with the table.
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
putttn wrote:After investigating the problem the left rear quarterbof the table starts dropping off right at the cut in the table for the blade. Any way to adjust this?
Interesting observation.
The purpose of the screw/knurled nut is to keep the two halves aligned at the center(at the slot).
Another interesting 'detail' is that the CI table was similarly low at that corner.
Is it possible the trunion is distorting them both?
For clarification, where is that low corner? As you face the teeth of the blade with the 'blade slot' pointing at thee, the corner to the left or right of the slot, and towards thee or the far side of the table?
Also the CI table had a bar(as just mentioned) to tie the slot sides, and the aluminum table a bolt and knurled nut mentioned above.
Is there any crud or unusual surface that either the bolt or nut bears against when tightened?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
As you face the teeth it's the left rear corner or in nautical terms port/aft. Maybe I'm being anal as it is about 1/32 low at the edge of the table. There really nothing under there to attach to do nothing would have pulled that corner down. As you move in from the edge of the table about 5 inches then it flattens out. It's a brand new table and everything was cleaned before install.
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
Thank You. That nails it.putttn wrote:As you face the teeth it's the left rear corner or in nautical terms port/aft. Maybe I'm being anal as it is about 1/32 low at the edge of the table. There really nothing under there to attach to do nothing would have pulled that corner down. As you move in from the edge of the table about 5 inches then it flattens out. It's a brand new table and everything was cleaned before install.
I wonder whether CS will consider it 'anal'.
Still suspicious of the trunion. Wonder if the 'dip' exists free floating?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
As i run my 1281 square forward on the left side of the table it flattens out and there is no sag from the blade forward to the left front of the table.
Re: New bandsaw table not level
Someone will have to explain to me what such a sag would hurt!putttn wrote:As you face the teeth it's the left rear corner or in nautical terms port/aft. Maybe I'm being anal as it is about 1/32 low at the edge of the table....

I just can't think of a project that would suffer at all from this table condition.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
Yes I'm wondering the same thing. But I'd still like a flat table when buying new from SS
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Re: New bandsaw table not level
Some interesting information from the Mother Ship after a call today. The flatness of the table is measured from the front left corner to the right rear corner and the front right corner to the left rear corner. AND, the trunion bolts ALL have to be torqued to the same tightness. She was very helpful and I'll ck it out.
Re: New bandsaw table not level
What does the MS consider to be level? Is there a prescribed torque level for the trunion bolts or is it just 'all the same'?