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ERLover wrote:It has always been my understanding that wood should be sanded a bit b4 staining or finishing to "open" the grain.
Sorry correction here, qualifies you to BE president.Dick/rjent,rjent wrote:OK, I have always been called Lazy. Even though I started and successfully ran 3 businesses (and all the sacrifice that entails) that continuously ran for decades, employed many people, and were productive (paid lots of tax), I was considered lazy. I was even called "Lucite, The work skipper" by one of my college professors because I was always looking for streamlining processes.
So, I was thinking. Why does the PowerPro planer setting have a "finish" setting. If your blades are sharp (easy to do) and a correct feed rate (hand crank) and blade speed ("finish planing"), can you truly plane a panel to "finish" quality and ready for stain or finish ....
I know, my laziness is showing ....
Do you know the reasoning behind that Ed? Are we talking finish or stain or both? I sanded some white oak to 320 grit and it hardly took the oil based stain because I burnished the wood. It came out way lighter.Ed in Tampa wrote:I know more than a few high dollar furniture makers that would die if someone took sandpaper to their furniture. They strive for perfection that only comes from a really good planer or cabinet scrapper. After a coat of finish or two then they will sand or rub the finish but they want to start will an almost burnished surface such as produced by a cabinet scrapper.
LMAO If only ....wa2crk wrote:Streamlining is not a description of laziness, it is a description of efficiency!!! The fact that you have successfully run several businesses and actually paid taxes qualifies you to run for President.
There is nothing Blah Blah Blah about that Ed. I value yoor knowledge and experience and appreciate you passing it on. I had planned on planing <-reible wrote:Wood being wood would not either be finished or knot known as it comes off any operation including a planner with a "finish" setting.
Most operations especially machine operations can be troublesome in that a particular work piece can exhibit areas where the grain is compressed and then releases towards normal verses places where it is burnished or work hardened. The variations between can be noticeable in both color and smoothness. If this is acceptable to the style or to the user becomes the controlling aspect.
From planner to finish can work but there is no sure fire way to know unless you try it..... being aware that it might not be to your liking..... and the next time is a new day so again you will not know how this next project will go any more then you did on the first.
If the project is a glue up then each piece can be different...... but if you finish with paint who will know except for texture and that can often be fixed with additional coats. You can also undercoat to fix such issues even is cases where you intend to stain.
Bla bla bla. Try it and see what you think, that is the only thing that counts.
Ed
two panels to see what happens. I was just curious as to if anyone had some experience I could learn from. All of your points are well taken ... 
That is interesting. The SS planer won't give that kind of burnishe finish, but I have observed that the surface is smooth and even, so it occured to me .....Ed in Tampa wrote:I know more than a few high dollar furniture makers that would die if someone took sandpaper to their furniture. They strive for perfection that only comes from a really good planer or cabinet scrapper. After a coat of finish or two then they will sand or rub the finish but they want to start will an almost burnished surface such as produced by a cabinet scrapper.
