Just sharpened the blades and installed them. I used the 2 magnetic gage set up to install them. My cuts are all over the place so I do not know if it is the blades are off or my table is not level? Does SS have any video on adjusting the table on the posts and gear adjustment in case they skipped a tooth? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Tom
12 in planer set up
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dusty
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Re: 12 in planer set up
Yes, they do.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Knives.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Tuneup.htm
I never had any luck setting the planer blades except using the setup gauge.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... knives.htm
This setup needs to be done with great care otherwise you "will see" unwanted knife marks.
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Knives.htm
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Tuneup.htm
I never had any luck setting the planer blades except using the setup gauge.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... knives.htm
This setup needs to be done with great care otherwise you "will see" unwanted knife marks.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: 12 in planer set up
Probably did not skip a tooth but I never did like the magnetic setting jigs. We did have a SS planer in our community shop for a period of time and found that the Shopsmith setting jig is the best way to fly. We got one from the Mother Ship for about $10 a few years back. Well worth the bucks.
Bill V
Bill V
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JPG
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Re: 12 in planer set up
The blades must be set relative to the table surface.
The SS gauge uses the connecting rod as an intermediate reference since the table is also set(chain/sprockets) to the same connecting rod.
I do not understand how a 'magnetic' blade holder would 'work'.
The blades are NOT set referenced to the blade holder alone although the setup gauge does rest upon it.
The SS gauge uses the connecting rod as an intermediate reference since the table is also set(chain/sprockets) to the same connecting rod.
I do not understand how a 'magnetic' blade holder would 'work'.
The blades are NOT set referenced to the blade holder alone although the setup gauge does rest upon it.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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woodmeister
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Re: 12 in planer set up
Got it finished. Used magnet set up gages and ran and indicator all the way across the blade and was within .001. Thanks for the input.
Tom
Tom
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dusty
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Re: 12 in planer set up
It is good that you have the blades properly aligned and you now have a fully functional planer. However, I am a bit confused as to how you accomplished this.
How/where did you install the magnets? What is the resulting "reference surface" to which you now measure deviation < .001"?
Can you post pictures of your setup?
How/where did you install the magnets? What is the resulting "reference surface" to which you now measure deviation < .001"?
Can you post pictures of your setup?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
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JPG
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Re: 12 in planer set up
Me too.dusty wrote:It is good that you have the blades properly aligned and you now have a fully functional planer. However, I am a bit confused as to how you accomplished this.
How/where did you install the magnets? What is the resulting "reference surface" to which you now measure deviation < .001"?
Can you post pictures of your setup?
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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woodmeister
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Re: 12 in planer set up
i got a video on youtube somewhere on how to do it but can not find it now. Will keep looking and or send a picture.
there are two gages with calibrations. I set them .132 thousands from cutter cylinder.
Remove the blades and clean out gibs and slots then screw in leveling screws down far as you can.
The gages work like a depth micrometer. The two legs have magnets on them that swivel and fit the contour of the cylinder head. I set the gages on the ends of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is parallel to the table. The middle of the gage has a strong magnet also. once you put legs on the cylinder I let of the blade and the magnet pulls the blade the edge of the blade. I then tighten blades gently and in a pattern not one after the other.
In order to check them out I took a dial indicator on a magnetic base and placed it against the round metal bar and zeroed it. I then proceeded to move the indicator from one side of planer to the other on the flat of the blade. All 3 blades were within .001 to .002 dimension. I trust the set up now. The metal gage I got with planer was difficult for me to get a good set up.
there are two gages with calibrations. I set them .132 thousands from cutter cylinder.
Remove the blades and clean out gibs and slots then screw in leveling screws down far as you can.
The gages work like a depth micrometer. The two legs have magnets on them that swivel and fit the contour of the cylinder head. I set the gages on the ends of the cylinder head. The cylinder head is parallel to the table. The middle of the gage has a strong magnet also. once you put legs on the cylinder I let of the blade and the magnet pulls the blade the edge of the blade. I then tighten blades gently and in a pattern not one after the other.
In order to check them out I took a dial indicator on a magnetic base and placed it against the round metal bar and zeroed it. I then proceeded to move the indicator from one side of planer to the other on the flat of the blade. All 3 blades were within .001 to .002 dimension. I trust the set up now. The metal gage I got with planer was difficult for me to get a good set up.
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dusty
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Re: 12 in planer set up
Your explanation sounds reasonable. I just can not envision the test setup. What you describe sounds something like a procedure that I have used on the jointer but with different tools.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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woodmeister
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Re: 12 in planer set up
https://youtu.be/elQuse47pzY
I used gages similar to these. www.rutlands.co.uk has a video too.
once i set up the knives into cylinder I then check it with the dial indicator for accuracy.
I used the indicator on a magnetic base. Mine is stainless but I set the tip of indicator onto knife and zeroed it. You turn the knife where it is flat or parallel to the table. Not the edge of knife but the flat part ground onto the blade. When the indicator is on zero we take the indicator
(with base riding along the heavy rod holding planer together) run indicator along the flat part of knife all the way across and check for deviation. Mine had very little.
I used gages similar to these. www.rutlands.co.uk has a video too.
once i set up the knives into cylinder I then check it with the dial indicator for accuracy.
I used the indicator on a magnetic base. Mine is stainless but I set the tip of indicator onto knife and zeroed it. You turn the knife where it is flat or parallel to the table. Not the edge of knife but the flat part ground onto the blade. When the indicator is on zero we take the indicator
(with base riding along the heavy rod holding planer together) run indicator along the flat part of knife all the way across and check for deviation. Mine had very little.