Repairing the headstock TAG?

[rab]

OK, new here, but I've been restoring the 10E (No. 17446) since July (yes, very slowly). My goal is to use it, but I do want it to look presentable, too.

For some reason, the original owner (before my father-in-law acquired it in the 70s) had drilled a hole through the tag into the headstock.

Stripped Tag for 10E #17446 (w/ hole)

2016-10-18 21.57.44.png (1.28 MiB) Viewed 4158 times

If anyone knows why, please enlighten me.

Anyway, before I repaint it, I'm wondering if there's some way to repair the hole. Suggestions?

-Rob

P.S. The scratches are not from me! That's part of the reason that it needed to be repainted.

[ERLover]

Maybe Epoxy/car body filler, ect, something that thin, I would think you need to adhere something to the back side first for support for the filler, then some diligent clean up/sanding on the front side. It will be a labor of love.

[BuckeyeDennis]

I'm far from an expert on this, but the tag metal looks like copper or bronze. I'm thinking that someone with the right equipment could simply braze a plug in the hole. Then you could grind/sand it flush, and touch up the letter outlines with a dremel tool or similar.

[everettdavis]

Don't know if it would work on this but I filled a hole that I took a counter sink to bevel both sides, duct taped the back and filled with JB Weld

Beveled sides locked the plug in.

Everett

[ERLover]

Don't know if it would work on this but I filled a hole that I took a counter sink to bevel both sides, duct taped the back and filled with JB Weld

Beveled sides locked the plug in.

Everett

Kind of my thought, but I would use more then duck tape on the back side, maybe a very thin piece of metal cut bigger then the hole and epoxy it on, it could be a piece of a can cover, then fill the hole from the front side. I like the counter sink idea to get a clean external edge and a bit more surface area on the front side.

[dusty]

I believe that the hole should be left there. It gives the Mark part of its' character and it would become subject of discussion.

[rjent]

Don't know if it would work on this but I filled a hole that I took a counter sink to bevel both sides, duct taped the back and filled with JB Weld

Beveled sides locked the plug in.

Everett

This is the way I would do it also. The tape just lets you form it and when the epoxy sets, it will be like metal to paint or whatever. I would form it to be a little proud of the surrounding metal so you can sand it smooth with 600 or better to give a slick metal like surface for paint.

Good idea Everett!

[rab]

I'm far from an expert on this, but the tag metal looks like copper or bronze. I'm thinking that someone with the right equipment could simply braze a plug in the hole. Then you could grind/sand it flush, and touch up the letter outlines with a dremel tool or similar.

The picture might look that way, but in person it is clearly aluminum.

I believe that the hole should be left there. It gives the Mark part of its' character and it would become subject of discussion.

Definitely not the kind of character I'm looking for. (And this is pre-"Mark" being a 10E)

Kind of my thought, but I would use more then duck tape on the back side, maybe a very thin piece of metal cut bigger then the hole and epoxy it on, it could be a piece of a can cover, then fill the hole from the front side. I like the counter sink idea to get a clean external edge and a bit more surface area on the front side.

My main concern is leaving the back side flat so that it will stay flush to the headstock when I remount it. When sitting on a flat surface, there are a few imperfections in how it sits, but mainly from where one of the drive screws that held it to the headstock deformed the mounting hole.

I have thought about starting with a "plug" to take up most of the hole and have my eye out for a similar gauge aluminum source, but I think that even the top of a soda can will be thinner (though I haven't measured a can top, the tag itself is 0.032" thick).

I found an aluminum repair product that might work (if I can figure out what to learn on):
http://durafix.com/index.html#order
Which seems to be the same as this product at Harbor Freight:
Low Temperature Aluminum Welding Rods 8 Pc

-Rob

[everettdavis]

Don't know if it would work on this but I filled a hole that I took a counter sink to bevel both sides, duct taped the back and filled with JB Weld

Beveled sides locked the plug in.

Everett

This is the way I would do it also. The tape just lets you form it and when the epoxy sets, it will be like metal to paint or whatever. I would form it to be a little proud of the surrounding metal so you can sand it smooth with 600 or better to give a slick metal like surface for paint.

Good idea Everett!

That's exactly what I did. I took detailing tape and surrounded the area on the face, filling it to that level with a scraper. When it cured, I removed that tape, covered the entire face except the hole area with very thin tape, then laid 800 - 1600 grit sandpaper on glass and wet sanded figure 8's to get it very close, then removed the facing tape and finished it with more figure 8's.

Everett

Update: Check out what Mickyd did in 2009 http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 674#p40674

The whole thread is 57 pages (all related to his 10ER restoration.. er,... resurection), and this discussion is spread throughout, but it may be a mechanism if you have to re-create the badge due to damage in the 'S' and other deep scratches.

Those can be edited when photographed, and a new etching template made.

Just another approach

[JPG]

I think Dusty was referring to the hole itself as the 'MARK' and 'its' meant the 10E.