Jointer blade set up

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woodmeister
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by woodmeister »

Thank you for the manual and all the advice
Tom
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jsburger
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by jsburger »

woodmeister wrote:
woodmeister wrote:used the piece of wood and got it within 3/8 inch all around. Results were awesome. Thanks for the advice!!!
woodmeister wrote:used the piece of wood and got it within 3/8 inch all around. Results were awesome. Thanks for the advice!!!
When laying the piece of wood on outfeed table and then rotated the cutter it traveled 3/8 of and inch on both ends of cutter blade on all 3 blades. Turned out great on finish.
I have not looked at the manual nor have done the adjustment lately but, 3/8 seems really excessive. The fact that it is the same everywhere is correct and shows that the blades are level. However 3/8" is not the right number. As I remember 1/16" is about right. That is a huge difference. As I remember the manual says to use a steel rule or straight edge. Using a piece of wood will give different results.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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JPG
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by JPG »

I am guessing trailing end snipe would be the result.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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jsburger
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by jsburger »

JPG wrote:I am guessing trailing end snipe would be the result.
Given that 3/8" travel means that the blades are set much higher than the out feed table do you want to rethink that? Proper jointer technique must be taken into condensation.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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JPG
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by JPG »

jsburger wrote:
JPG wrote:I am guessing trailing end snipe would be the result.
Given that 3/8" travel means that the blades are set much higher than the out feed table do you want to rethink that? Proper jointer technique must be taken into condensation.
NOPE!

Taking 'proper technique' in to account leads me to the conclusion that when the workpiece is about to exit the INfeed table, the end is likely to be supported by the INfeed table. The high blades will create a gap between the workpiece and the OUTfeed table at the cutter end. As the workpiece is fed off the INFEED table it will drop as that gap is eliminated.

i.e. proper technique will indeed be pressing the workpiece down to the OUTfeed table, but the INfeed table will support the trailing end of the workpiece until it exits the INfeed table.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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jsburger
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by jsburger »

JPG wrote:
jsburger wrote:
JPG wrote:I am guessing trailing end snipe would be the result.
Given that 3/8" travel means that the blades are set much higher than the out feed table do you want to rethink that? Proper jointer technique must be taken into condensation.
NOPE!

Taking 'proper technique' in to account leads me to the conclusion that when the workpiece is about to exit the INfeed table, the end is likely to be supported by the INfeed table. The high blades will create a gap between the workpiece and the OUTfeed table at the cutter end. As the workpiece is fed off the INFEED table it will drop as that gap is eliminated.

i.e. proper technique will indeed be pressing the workpiece down to the OUTfeed table, but the INfeed table will support the trailing end of the workpiece until it exits the INfeed table.
Yup, but with proper technique the in feed table will only support the end of the stock until there is enough surface on the out feed table for the out feed hand to push that surface down on the table. You don't push down on the in feed end when you have enough surface on the out feed end. You will get some kind of glitch somewhere in the middle but not a clean straight cut with snipe on the out feed end.

Again, proper technique is the basis. Without that who knows.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
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JPG
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by JPG »

Assume a perfectly straight workpiece.

Feed it into the cutter until you are ready to transfer pressure to the out feed side.

At that point the workpiece will NOT be contacting the outfeed table, but will be proud of the outfeed table by the amount of excess height of the cutters.

As the hold down pressure is applied to the outfeed side of the workpiece, the leading end will drop down to the table, but the trailing end is still supported by the infeed table. A glitch may occur at that point.

Continue until my previous description occurs.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wa2crk
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Re: Jointer blade set up

Post by wa2crk »

Is "Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone" still downloadable from the MS? I believe the section on the jointer had the blade setting instructions.
Bill V
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