A.O. Smith 1/2HP Question

[Tylerh]

In a recent thread about a Franklin 3/4HP motor, http://shopsmith.com/ss_forum/maintenan ... 19253.html the OP posts about what he calls a "spring washer" and states where it is placed, under the bearing in the end bell. Well during disassembly I found that spring washer in my A.O. Smith 1/2HP motor sitting on my workbench. No idea where it came from though. It wasn't under the bearing because the bearing was still stuck in it's blind hole. My only thought is that it sits on top of the bearing, and then the "plate" is placed over it then screwed to the end bell. If you look in the 4th pic, you can see the shinier circle in the middle section on the "plate". Any suggestions?
P.S. Please feel free to correct any of my terminology of parts!

[JPG]

The big round thing with the shaft on each end is the 'rotor'.

The three green things are pads that move with the centrifugal switch actuator.

The 'plate' is the start switch.

The three pads rub against the shiny circle part of the start switch 'moving contact'.

IF the spring washer was 'on the bench' when the rear(start switch end) bearing was still in the end bell, it must go between the OTHER end bell and it's bearing.

Difficult to tell from the pix, but I think the finger side faces the bearing(this assumes the flat side will bear against the lip in the bottom of the bearing bore in the 'front' end bell.

Not sure how the kiddy dough helped get the bearing out, but it apparently was successful.

[Tylerh]

You were just the person I was looking for JPG. That makes more sense now, the washer going in the front end bell. I'll have to check on that. Also thanks for the explanation of the parts, one thing I don't quite understand yet. About the kiddy dough, I think the correct term is hydraulic expansion, but don't quote me on it. I used the kiddy dough to stuff in the I.D. of the bearing to fill the blind hole, then I used one of the 4 cup centers I have, the back end, not the end with the point and using a wooden mallet tapped it in the bearing I.D. filled with the dough, added more kiddy dough, tapped some more, and after a few repetitions of this the bearing was forced out of its hole. Much cheaper than buying a slide hammer!

[JPG]

Thank You! Now I unnerstan the kiddy dough!

[Tylerh]

I'm also wondering how to go about replacing the cord that goes from the motor to the switch. As you can see in these pics, both wires from the cord are spliced somehow to wires from the motor and then tied to the windings which makes it hard to see what exactly is going on. Once again, help please!

[JPG]

You will have to cut the lacing cord(string) that bundles those wires together, Then you can determine where the black and white cord wires go. They are likely soldered to internal wires. Be sure to reinsulate those connections. Small cable ties can take the place of the lacing cord. Try to keep positioning the same.

[Tylerh]

Well that sounds a little above my skill level.. So I would have to cut the wires at the connection point, solder the new wires to the internal wires and then use shrink tubing to insulate? Is there an easier way? Could I use quick connects possibly to connect the wires? Or butt connectors? I've never had to solder anything.. always just used crimped on terminals for stuff.

[JPG]

Crimping is an option, but access with the crimping tool may be a problem.

You could cut the cord wires and crimp a new cord to them.

The pix do not reveal a problem with the input cord. Why replace it?

[Tylerh]

Good points there JPG.. now that I think about it crimping would be quite difficult. I bought a 25ft extension cord rated for extreme temps, mostly so it stays flexible in the cold winters up here and the 10E will be living in an unfinished/uninsulated garage. I bought the extra length so I could have some wire for the motor to the switch, but now that I think about it the wire already present is in good shape. I guess I have the mentality of fix everything even if it's not broken. I think the correct phrase is why fix it if it's not broken, though. So I think I will just leave it and try it out. Then all i have to do is connect the hot+neutral from line cord to the switch and ground to motor mount. I think I will be able to test the motor alot sooner now

[jsburger]

The big round thing with the shaft on each end is the 'rotor'.

The three green things are pads that move with the centrifugal switch actuator.

The 'plate' is the start switch.

The three pads rub against the shiny circle part of the start switch 'moving contact'.

IF the spring washer was 'on the bench' when the rear(start switch end) bearing was still in the end bell, it must go between the OTHER end bell and it's bearing.

Difficult to tell from the pix, but I think the finger side faces the bearing(this assumes the flat side will bear against the lip in the bottom of the bearing bore in the 'front' end bell.

Not sure how the kiddy dough helped get the bearing out, but it apparently was successful.

That is all correct. The picture shows the spring washer as it was when I pulled the end bell.