Slow to gain speed

[beerboss]

Good to know, I did think you could over oil. I understand everything is within reason but I think I may have been rather stingy in the past and underestimating how many hours I've put on it between oiling. Wait, that may make my wife right about how much time I spend in the shop. No, must be something else.

A big thanks to everyone. I'm out for a week and a half but will report back what happens

[beerboss]

Just a follow up. I oiled the shafts like never before and as I ran the speed up and down I noticed the lower shaft moving in and then as the speed increased it came back out. That is when I saw the eccentric bushing was loose and so was the dive belt. I rotated the bushing and tightened everything up and all seems to be good again, still need to get the oil worked in though.

[jms]

I'm having a very similar issue as the OP in the original post. Occasionally slow to start, but once I start changing the speed dial it ramps up in a few seconds.

I'm in the process of tearing down the headstock for full inspection and cleaning per the Sawdust session on said topic and the associated PDF instruction document.

I'm stuck at the point in the video where the idler shaft is removed. I can't get the retainer clip off the fixed idler sheave.

Any tips on getting the fixed idler shaft sheave retaining clip off??

-jeremy

[JPG]

I'm having a very similar issue as the OP in the original post. Occasionally slow to start, but once I start changing the speed dial it ramps up in a few seconds.

I'm in the process of tearing down the headstock for full inspection and cleaning per the Sawdust session on said topic and the associated PDF instruction document.

I'm stuck at the point in the video where the idler shaft is removed. I can't get the retainer clip off the fixed idler sheave.

Any tips on getting the fixed idler shaft sheave retaining clip off??

-jeremy

It is a pesky task. Do you need to replace the key? If not leave it alone.

[jms]

I'm having a very similar issue as the OP in the original post. Occasionally slow to start, but once I start changing the speed dial it ramps up in a few seconds.

I'm in the process of tearing down the headstock for full inspection and cleaning per the Sawdust session on said topic and the associated PDF instruction document.

I'm stuck at the point in the video where the idler shaft is removed. I can't get the retainer clip off the fixed idler sheave.

Any tips on getting the fixed idler shaft sheave retaining clip off??

-jeremy

It is a pesky task. Do you need to replace the key? If not leave it alone.

So -- I was basing my Mark V 510 headstock inspection/cleaning off the Sawdust video -- which is of course a Goldie and apparently different in this aspect. After watching the video a number of times (idler shaft removal starts around 16:13 into the "SS122 -SS Reborn" video) I realized that my process would be different. I went ahead and removed the motor pan and motor so as to better get to the retaining clip, and then realized that the idler shaft with fixed sheave could come out that way.

While I have it out, I did get the retaining clip off and do intend to take the sheave off the shaft, might as well while I'm in there. Also, did notice just the slightest of play in the idler shaft bearings - very slight but present.

Is there a bearing kit for the entire headstock? I looked briefly on the SS site but didnt' see one readily.

[JPG]

I do not understand the 510 different from a goldie statement.

The 'current' idler shaft/ bearings/ eccentric is different from earlier versions. Is it possible you have the newer version(dual bearings and open bottom eccentric)?

Now that you do have the idler sheave off the shaft, examine the key and shaft(including keyway) for wear.

If you have the older water pump idler shaft/bearing, I would recommend changing to the current set of parts.

[algale]

I do not understand the 510 different from a goldie statement.

The 'current' idler shaft/ bearings/ eccentric is different from earlier versions. Is it possible you have the newer version(dual bearings and open bottom eccentric)?

Now that you do have the idler sheave off the shaft, examine the key and shaft(including keyway) for wear.

If you have the older water pump idler shaft/bearing, I would recommend changing to the current set of parts.

Dumb question: why is it called a "water pump" idler shaft/bearing?

[JPG]

I do not understand the 510 different from a goldie statement.

The 'current' idler shaft/ bearings/ eccentric is different from earlier versions. Is it possible you have the newer version(dual bearings and open bottom eccentric)?

Now that you do have the idler sheave off the shaft, examine the key and shaft(including keyway) for wear.

If you have the older water pump idler shaft/bearing, I would recommend changing to the current set of parts.

Dumb question: why is it called a "water pump" idler shaft/bearing?

Because it is a modified automotive water pump bearing(think fan blades on the end of the shaft). Not much call for them nowadays(sourcing problem), so the design has changed to the current version.

[jms]

The idler shaft and eccentric bushing that I have is shown as the "old" style in the photos at the following link. FWIW I still can't get the idler sheave off the shaft even after removing the funny looking retaining clip. I have put some WD40 on both sides of the idler sheave at the shaft and let it soak for a few hours. Will try and separate it tomorrow.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... r_note.htm

What I meant by "different" between the Goldie in the "inspecting and cleaning" video and my 510 was that in the video he never removes a retaining clip when removing the idler sheave, he just loosens the eccentric bushing and then reaches in and slides the idler sheave off, allowing him to pull the idler shaft right out. I tried for an hour to figure out how to do what he did. There simply was not enough room for me to stick my hand and tools inside the headstock to remove the idler sheave retaining clip with the motor pan still installed. After removing the motor/pan I realized the entire idler shaft with sheave could be removed at one time, to the inside area of the headstock, once the motor pan was off.


--jeremy

[JPG]

Yes I think Nick cheated on that one!

Tomorrow, hold the idler sheave in your handwith the output shaft pointing towards the floor. Whack the control sheave end with a short 2x4. That should get it moving. May have to reverse a few times. You do have the copper colored hair pin clip removed! Located on the shaft deep inside the idler sheave center. Making sure we be referring to the same 'clip'.