br549 wrote:I own a 500 (not a 520) so not familiar with its saw guards and riving knives, BUT, could it be the arbor itself? Yours looks similar to one I have for blades with a 5/8" mounting hole. It is at least 10 mm longer than my Shopsmith arbors for blades with 1 1/4" holes.
Yes the arbors for a 500 are different then the 510/520's which are longer. It would appear that you have a longer arbor which while it works is not the correct version for your machine.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Question is, how did it get that way, and it has to have excessive drift in/out of the quill body(that knurled collar limits that when installed correctly).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
dusty wrote:Study this drawing. There are not many ways the quill shaft could be installed so as to cause this.
Is there a stop ring missing.
Only one way. The collar is installed inside out.
The stop ring retains the bearing.
The stop collar retains the shaft(it is free to slip in/out).
Oh and do not forget to center the collar on it's own tapered flat.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
As I mentioned earlier, I had taken the saw blade (and the silver colored collar) off when I set up the band saw. I obviously put it back on backwards. It all lines up perfectly now!
One follow up question comes from this experience. When you go from table saw to say, band saw, is it necessary to take that collar off?
As I mentioned earlier, I had taken the saw blade (and the silver colored collar) off when I set up the band saw. I obviously put it back on backwards. It all lines up perfectly now!
One follow up question comes from this experience. When you go from table saw to say, band saw, is it necessary to take that collar off?
Thanks very much for all of the responses!
ONLY IF YOU INTEND TO EITHER REPLACE THE QUILL BEARING(S) OR THE QUILL SHAFT.
I have to inquire why you even considered it necessary to remove?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Do you have a powerpro or reversing powerhead? Other wise you were running the bandsaw backwards! The bandsaw mounts on the other side unless you can reverse the powerhead. If you have looked around here you might have seem me running it that way but that is because I have a powerpro and can do so.
Ed
rdbjr57 wrote:Wow! Good eyes!
As I mentioned earlier, I had taken the saw blade (and the silver colored collar) off when I set up the band saw. I obviously put it back on backwards. It all lines up perfectly now!
One follow up question comes from this experience. When you go from table saw to say, band saw, is it necessary to take that collar off?
Thanks very much for all of the responses!
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
Oops... I wasn't clear. I did not attach the band saw to the saw side of the motor. I did attach it to the other side. And I took the collar off because I didn't know better. Believe me, I won't make that mistake again! Thanks again for all of the help.
When you tighten the set screw on the collar, pull out on the shaft and in on the collar. That pulls the shaft up against the inside of the bearing and the collar against the outside end of the bearing resulting(hopefully) in minimal end play of the quill shaft.
Then plug the set screw hole with putty.
Oh and rock the collar to ensure it gets centered on it's flat.(three hands helps )
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange