Shop Vac Dust Collection
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wingman2010
- Gold Member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 12:38 am
- Location: San Antonio, Texas
Thank you for saying all this. I thought I was the only one who has trouble breathing after emptying the shopvac. I'm going to save up for a dust collector. Before I get one, it's time to get two washable filters (great idea), because that will always be useful. Geez, this skill/hobby truly is an addiction, especially for a tool junkie like me.
1993 Shopsmith Model 510. Very proud to be a Shopsmith owner.
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bobgroh
- Gold Member
- Posts: 400
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 1:12 pm
- Location: Just east of Kansas City, Missouri
I think a two stage approach is best - a ShopVac or equivalent (maybe even a full blown dust collector) pulling the dust through a cyclone such as the Oneida Dust Deputy. I have that arrangement (see my previous posting with pictures) and it works great for my small shop. I also have a bag in the ShopVac and, of course, the normal filter on the inside around the pump inlet. Seems to pull a storm and almost all the dust winds up in the cyclone's bucket and never gets to the ShopVac. I also added a dryer vent in the workshop wall where I can vent the ShopVac into for a really through job of dust collection.
Rockler also has a simpler pre-dust collector - two nozzles in the top of a drum - a sort of half-a**ed cyclone if you will. Supposed to work pretty well.
Couple of points here in my mind:
1. Every shop should have some active form of effective dust collection. As I got older, it got so just sanding would start me wheezing. No more for me!
2. Having the dust drop offs before the fan makes a lot of sense to me - avoids all the potential damage from big stuff hitting the fan blades.
3. A good system doesn't need to be expensive but (IMHO) you need at least a two stage approach - cyclone and then a regular dust collector.
Rockler also has a simpler pre-dust collector - two nozzles in the top of a drum - a sort of half-a**ed cyclone if you will. Supposed to work pretty well.
Couple of points here in my mind:
1. Every shop should have some active form of effective dust collection. As I got older, it got so just sanding would start me wheezing. No more for me!
2. Having the dust drop offs before the fan makes a lot of sense to me - avoids all the potential damage from big stuff hitting the fan blades.
3. A good system doesn't need to be expensive but (IMHO) you need at least a two stage approach - cyclone and then a regular dust collector.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
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1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
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robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
bobgroh wrote:I think a two stage approach is best - a ShopVac or equivalent (maybe even a full blown dust collector) pulling the dust through a cyclone such as the Oneida Dust Deputy. I have that arrangement (see my previous posting with pictures) and it works great for my small shop. I also have a bag in the ShopVac and, of course, the normal filter on the inside around the pump inlet. Seems to pull a storm and almost all the dust winds up in the cyclone's bucket and never gets to the ShopVac. I also added a dryer vent in the workshop wall where I can vent the ShopVac into for a really through job of dust collection.
Rockler also has a simpler pre-dust collector - two nozzles in the top of a drum - a sort of half-a**ed cyclone if you will. Supposed to work pretty well.
Couple of points here in my mind:
1. Every shop should have some active form of effective dust collection. As I got older, it got so just sanding would start me wheezing. No more for me!
2. Having the dust drop offs before the fan makes a lot of sense to me - avoids all the potential damage from big stuff hitting the fan blades.
3. A good system doesn't need to be expensive but (IMHO) you need at least a two stage approach - cyclone and then a regular dust collector.
I would like to work out a system where I can just exhaust 100% of the actual dust and shavings out of the shop and have a separator that would only catch any hunks or nails etc. that might damage the impeller on one of my collector blowers. I do not want to accumulate anything but chunks. Everything else is to be blown into a pile outside away from the shop.
I have a Penn State 1 1/2 HP collector and a Harbor Freight 2 HP collector. They are in the current shop with bags but will go into a tiny cellar at one end of the new shop (24' X 45') without bags. It will basically just be the blowers and motors with switch legs up in the shop. All but that tiny service cellar is crawl space. Not sure of the exact height of the crawl space but I can sit up in it (I wish it was a full basement). The collector lines will all be in the crawl space and go up through the wood floor.
I have an idea of how to make the dust and chips go out and trap only the chunks but I will only know for sure after I try it. I plan to use a sweeping Tee like the one shown in the position shown. The bottom would mount on the lid of the container and would hopefully only catch chunks. The line from the shop would enter from the right. The top outlet would have about a 3' rise to the collector blower intake. Hopefully 98% of the dust shavings and chips would make the path up the vertical pipe to the blower but the chunks would be heavy enough to fall back down into the container. Time and testing will tell. It will probably need some tweaking and certainly would need to all be quick to open up in case of blockage.
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I should mention again here that this is a farm and that my closest neighbor is a half mile away.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I think an L and straight pipe would work more gooder.
The L as an inlet to the 'container' and straight pipe as an exit.
An extension of the inlet so as to 'dump' larger particles nearer the bottom.
That way the bigger stuff will not be fighting the uplow as it 'falls'.
Or maybe reversing the Y so that the big stuff is deflected down and the outlet upflow will occur within the container near the top.
The L as an inlet to the 'container' and straight pipe as an exit.
An extension of the inlet so as to 'dump' larger particles nearer the bottom.
That way the bigger stuff will not be fighting the uplow as it 'falls'.
Or maybe reversing the Y so that the big stuff is deflected down and the outlet upflow will occur within the container near the top.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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daddy2kids
- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2017 2:15 am
Re: Shop Vac Dust Collection
Hello everyone.
I need a good dust collector. Any ideas which one to get?
I want to buy one but I'm confused with all the information I'm reading on reviews.
Can anyone tell me which one is good to buy in this review?
Dust collector review
Thanks.
I need a good dust collector. Any ideas which one to get?
I want to buy one but I'm confused with all the information I'm reading on reviews.
Can anyone tell me which one is good to buy in this review?
Dust collector review
Thanks.
Re: Shop Vac Dust Collection
daddy, any of the machines in that article will do a decent job. A few things to bear in mind while deciding:
- A lot of the better dust collectors require 220V to power their large motors (anything over about 1 1/2 hp will probably be 220V).
- Many of the better machines use a cyclone separator (the cone shaped part) to get most of the dust and chips out of the air stream before it goes to the filter. This makes for less frequent filter changes/replacements. Unfortunately, most of the machines with a cyclone are also 220V!
- You can add a cyclone as a "first stage" to either a shop vac type collector or a dust collector, but be sure it's the right size for your system.
- The gold standard for filters are those rated at 1 micron. Very fine dust, just 2-3 microns in size, is the hardest to keep out of your shop air, and is actually the most hazardous to your lungs. Some machines will advertise a HEPA filter, which is also good.
- Noise. Any shop vac or dust collector will make noise, but the less the better. I thought I had scored a good deal on a garage sale ShopVac, until I got it home and turned it on.
- A lot of the better dust collectors require 220V to power their large motors (anything over about 1 1/2 hp will probably be 220V).
- Many of the better machines use a cyclone separator (the cone shaped part) to get most of the dust and chips out of the air stream before it goes to the filter. This makes for less frequent filter changes/replacements. Unfortunately, most of the machines with a cyclone are also 220V!
- You can add a cyclone as a "first stage" to either a shop vac type collector or a dust collector, but be sure it's the right size for your system.
- The gold standard for filters are those rated at 1 micron. Very fine dust, just 2-3 microns in size, is the hardest to keep out of your shop air, and is actually the most hazardous to your lungs. Some machines will advertise a HEPA filter, which is also good.
- Noise. Any shop vac or dust collector will make noise, but the less the better. I thought I had scored a good deal on a garage sale ShopVac, until I got it home and turned it on.