Dado arbor for regular blade

[bcs]

The 'critical detail' to pay heed to is the positioning of the washers against the blade. The under cut side(center is thinner than the outer edge) MUST face the blade(both sides of the blade). That insures nothing around the hole interferes with the pressure against the blade at the periphery of the washers.[/quote]

Got it. Thank you.

[dusty]

There may be technical reasons for why it "should not"; technical reasons like where the blades centers in the the table cut out (which could also become a safety issue). However, I do not thnk it is a problem. I have used the regular saw blade on the dado arbor with NO noticeable adverse effect. Just use the quill or the moveable carriage to get the blade where is should be in the opening.

Shopsmith lawyers also do not effect my way of thinking. Not true at Shopsmith.

[JPG]

There may be technical reasons for why it "should not"; technical reasons like where the blades centers in the the table cut out (which could also become a safety issue). However, I do not thnk it is a problem. I have used the regular saw blade on the dado arbor with NO noticeable adverse effect. Just use the quill or the moveable carriage to get the blade where is should be in the opening.

Shopsmith lawyers also do not effect my way of thinking. Not true at Shopsmith.

I have the same attitudes with lawyer types with one notable exception that happens to be a forum member.

However realize they are being protective of their client.

Only I am responsible for my own mistakes.

Not everyone adheres to that.

[reible]

I don't do the dado arbor for regular saw blades but the first thing I would check is to see if the blade guard fits with the knife in place. You have some room for adjustment but not a lot. Of course if you don't use the knife and upper guard then I guess one doesn't care about that feature.

Ed

[Hobbyman2]

Just checked myn with a dial indicator ,,,,,

I have a 1/2" arbor and a 5/8 arbor ?

Mainly use 5/8

I do not ,,,,ever,,, knock out the diamond shape center on the blades for the larger arbors.

If you have a dial indicator you can check for wobble or a depth gage ya can tell if the blade is centered on the shaft?

Not sure why SS says not to use it?

Might have to call them .

Hobbyman2

[dusty]

This posting makes me suspect that we are not talking about the same thing. This is the arbor that Shopsmith recommends NOT BE USED WITH REGULAR SAW BLADES.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... oarbor.htm

Is this what you have?

Or do you have a wobble dado?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/7-x-16t ... rizzly.com

[Hobbyman2]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... oarbor.htm

This is what I have ,,1 is 1/2" arbor and the second is 5/8" arbor,
I use blades from the big box stores with out issue?.

Maybe I am doing it wrong.

I only have a couple blades from SS , they came with the saw .


IMO,,, I wont use a wobble blade.

Just personal preference .

Handyman2

[dusty]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... oarbor.htm

This is what I have ,,1 is 1/2" arbor and the second is 5/8" arbor,
I use blades from the big box stores with out issue?.

Maybe I am doing it wrong.

I only have a couple blades from SS , they came with the saw .


IMO,,, I wont use a wobble blade.

Just personal preference .

Handyman2

That IS the correct "dado arbor" for use on the Shopsmith.

You say you only have a couple blades. I assume then that you have the two outer blades and no chippers.

With that combination, you should be mounting the blades and nearly all (if not all) of the spacers. If you are doing this as I think you should, when you finally put on the locking washer and the nut there should be a very small amount of the threaded arbor shaft showing.

To get the dado blade centered in the table cutout, you may need to move the carriage away from the headstock a small amount so that the arbor clears the Table Bar and Tube.

That said, I think you've got it.

I went to the shop and quickly mounted the dado arbor (it is NOT secured to the quill shaft). I have one chipper installed and as a result have one spacer that is not mounted. Note the arbor nut and remaining exposed threads.

004.jpg (1.81 MiB) Viewed 16273 times

To center the blade I had to relocate the carriage about a half inch or more.

005.jpg (1.85 MiB) Viewed 16273 times

The saw dust on the Bench Tubes makes clear just how much the carriage is moved.

[JPG]

That 'rotated' pix merely looks like 'from the back' to me.

[reible]

Here is a picture of a dado arbor and a saw arbor both are for the newer 505-520 hardware. To get a blade placement that aligns with the safety equipment on one of these systems you have a very limited range of fitting things together. By putting one of the thin washers on the dado arbor you end up with a match to the distance out of the blade arbor.

IMG_3523sc.jpg (205.4 KiB) Viewed 16262 times

This means that at least this part of the system appears to work. Now where the shaft extends is another matter. It could just hit the shield or it could hit the tie bar. I'd do that but I have a set-up on the lathe that I don't want to take apart to test it.

Another thing that I noticed is the the key way ramps up so the washer will only go so far. If you were to want to mount something with the second thin washer it would have to be at least 5/16" thick. Of course the thick washer mounted on that side will work. So the stack up would be thin washer, blade, thick washer, optional thin washer and locking washer with the nut on the end.

IMG_3524scm.jpg (241.61 KiB) Viewed 16262 times

So at this point I can not say that the dado arbor will work for regular blades or not, it might depend on if you use the upper guard or not....

If anyone has their machine free I'd like to know if the end of the dado arbor hits anything when installed with a regular blade. Other wise I'd do the test myself when I take down the lathe project in a couple of days.

Ed