Power cord replacement

[jms]

While replacing the power cord on my 510 with the factory stock cord from ShopSmith, I ran into an issue. My 510 is a 1986 with Type B casting, one previous owner - USAF - who had installed their own 3rd party cord that had several splices in it, hence the desire to replace with factory stock.

The factory cord that I got from SS today came with the white wire being the shortest, and shorter than the black by a mile. I don't see how on earth this is supposed to fit properly without me cutting all 3 wires to proper lengths and crimping on new connectors which renders useless the fact that they are already cut to length and have connectors.

So, this is just a sanity check -- did SS quality control just completely miss this -- or is this set of wire lengths on my new cord perhaps meant for the PP headstock?

See in the photo, my old cord (yes, 3rd party, but still lengths were very appropriate) vs the new cord on the right.

[everettdavis]

There are early toggle switch models that were produced with both white and black wires going to the switch, both being switched.

Later production, they pigtailed the two whites together, and switched only the black (hot) wire. In these situations, the 2nd set of contacts were not used. They were however available when the first set of contacts that were, failed. Machines could be brought back into production when the contacts failed, simply by unplugging the power cord, then carefully moving the black wires to the other set, giving you time to order a replacement switch.

Eventually, production changed the length of the white wire (neutral circuit) and shortened the wires, pigtail near the motor and only the black (hot wire) going up and back from the switch.

That is the power cord you received. You need the other, older cord. If you call customer service they will help you get what you need for your version of power distribution.

They may just get you to shorten the white wire and install a blade and connector on the neutral side, which will leave you two black wires at the switch, two unused connectors on the switch, and convert your machine to the new standard.

Whatever you do, make sure the green ground is connected to the metal case of the motor etc. to protect you from electrical shock should any portion of the hot circuit ever short out to it.

Pay attention to the wire routing in the headstock to insure nothing comes into the path of moving parts like the quadrant (speed control) or sheaves.

Everett

[jms]

Thanks Everett -- yes the instructions that came with the cord do state to connect the white wire from the cord to the white wire of the motor - but as you state this is not how my headstock is wired.

Having said that, it sounds like the simple fix is for me to move to the new wiring standard - after all I won't be losing any functionality. So, by simply installing a male "disconnect" type terminal on the white wire of my motor, I should be good to go.

[everettdavis]

Yes sir.

I would use an insulated spade connector, then heat shrink over it assembled which insures they stay together.

Everett

[everettdavis]

There is a Hands OnLine! Video you may find helpful as well. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Switch.htm

The Black Board Session within it has multiple tabs, that illustrate the wiring which I inserted into the photo in case that's all you need.

Everett

Switch Wiring.png (1.19 MiB) Viewed 4147 times

[jms]

Everett - that info was very helpful. My 1986 510 was indeed wired to the "early mark V" scheme - I've updated to the current wiring scheme using the new factory cord without cutting it and she's purring along just fine.

I only had to replace the female spade connector on the white wire from the motor with a male spade connector and everything else was plug-n-play.

Thanks for the tip !!

[everettdavis]

I am glad you were able to get it done and back in operation.

They do make a 2-way male to male connector to join two female connectors, but they can be hard to locate when you need one.

The one below is in a terminal block, but just a bare double ended spade with heat shrink would also work.

Everett

2-way male to male spade connector in terminal block.jpg (32.16 KiB) Viewed 4056 times