O.K. - It is time for show and tell. Not much tell, but the pictures pretty well tell the story. I'm not real happy with the umber color, but it'll do for a while. Maybe a little dirt will help!;)
Right now the tool box is sitting on top of the Shopsmith cabinets I use for a rolling small table. The box's home will be on right side of the bench which is now littered with a Staples box filled with scraps and stuff.
I am happy with the lower drawer front which was sawn out of the board, making the grain match perfectly. The upper and lower edges of the drawer were ripped from the board - then the width of the drawer was cross cut on both sides. Then the cutoffs from the cross cut were glued back into the board. (This was the Idea of the maker of the plans)
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Almost Weekly Blog Oct. 12
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Almost Weekly Blog Oct. 12
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Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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a1gutterman
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 3653
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:45 am
- Location: "close to" Seattle
I hope someday, I can do half as good as you do,Chuck.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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flashbacpt
- Gold Member
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:41 pm
- Location: Concord, Ca.
Almost weekly blog
Wow! VERY, VERY Nice! Well Done!
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
Dwightdrl wrote:Really a nice job on that chest. I would also like to know, as Tim posted, how you did the finger joints on the curves?
Regards,
Dwight
Look at the first picture. He didn't finger joint on curves he finger jointed on straight pieces of wood. The side piece was cut in angle but straight. He then jointed the pieces and moulded the curve.
Chuck
My question while the curve piece make the whole project unique I can see if you just made a cover for the slanted section when you opened it you would have nice work space. With the curve it now hangs down and actually blocks the lower drawer. I see the curve covers the upper drawers but was there any other reason for it?
Ed
Hi guys! First of all, thank you to all, for the many nice words!
Yep! Ed is correct!
I really don't know how practical this tool box will be, with it's small top drawers - only about an inch and a half high and roughly 4" wide. So far I have used them for screws needed for the project. The lid, when opened, onto a bench gives a very nice curved holder to place tools that I'm presently using. I think this may be a big help in avoiding lost/misplaced tools. It'll even hold my long bench plane.
But, yes, it does block the lower larger bottom drawer.
The toolbox caught my eye on the cover of a Shopnotes Magazine - (May 2008, I think.) I wondered if it would do-able in my shop. Then having successfully completed finger jointed magazine holders, and having a bunch of poplar to use, I chose to give it a try. As stated in the magazine, it is a challenge! The top has a rabbeted cleat that fits into a groove in the back and the shelf bins have tongues that allow the the bins to slide into the sides f the case. The front edge of the top is screwed to the drawer bin from the bottom up through access holes drilled through the bin, while the back of the top can still expand (moisture exchange) into and out of the groove/rabbet mating. One of the tricks here (explained in the magazine) is to cut the grooves only in a recess between fingers - if the groove extends to a finger, there would be a square hole appearing in the sides. NOTE: Got this groove trick backwards first time! (shame!) Had to edit so now it is correct. Good thing I got it right on the box!
The staves as they are called (like a barrel) were finger joint dry mated with rectangular side pieces. These were then disassembled and the angles were sawed on the sides using a jig that allowed a 11.25 degree angle on each side. (actually a very simple jig based on the tangent of 11 1/4 degrees. we used a hold down to hold the small pieces [1/2"x2"x4"]) The side pieces were then taped together and fit in the 90 degree space between the hinged base and the vertical case sides.
After a good fit was obtained, then the staves were individually glued to the angled sides. Then the correct angle had to be sawn on the edges of the staves and sanded for fit. After gluing the staves together, the job was to round off the 4 angles from the staves. Here is where I couldn't find my long bench plane.
Used the belt sander and mostly a hand held quarter sheet sander.
One more thing: After once setting up the finger joint jig to the miter gauge, I had to disassemble and re assemble it several times in order to do necessary sawing. I was pleasantly amazed at the ease of re-assembling that jig.
Yep! Ed is correct!
I really don't know how practical this tool box will be, with it's small top drawers - only about an inch and a half high and roughly 4" wide. So far I have used them for screws needed for the project. The lid, when opened, onto a bench gives a very nice curved holder to place tools that I'm presently using. I think this may be a big help in avoiding lost/misplaced tools. It'll even hold my long bench plane.
But, yes, it does block the lower larger bottom drawer.The toolbox caught my eye on the cover of a Shopnotes Magazine - (May 2008, I think.) I wondered if it would do-able in my shop. Then having successfully completed finger jointed magazine holders, and having a bunch of poplar to use, I chose to give it a try. As stated in the magazine, it is a challenge! The top has a rabbeted cleat that fits into a groove in the back and the shelf bins have tongues that allow the the bins to slide into the sides f the case. The front edge of the top is screwed to the drawer bin from the bottom up through access holes drilled through the bin, while the back of the top can still expand (moisture exchange) into and out of the groove/rabbet mating. One of the tricks here (explained in the magazine) is to cut the grooves only in a recess between fingers - if the groove extends to a finger, there would be a square hole appearing in the sides. NOTE: Got this groove trick backwards first time! (shame!) Had to edit so now it is correct. Good thing I got it right on the box!
The staves as they are called (like a barrel) were finger joint dry mated with rectangular side pieces. These were then disassembled and the angles were sawed on the sides using a jig that allowed a 11.25 degree angle on each side. (actually a very simple jig based on the tangent of 11 1/4 degrees. we used a hold down to hold the small pieces [1/2"x2"x4"]) The side pieces were then taped together and fit in the 90 degree space between the hinged base and the vertical case sides.
After a good fit was obtained, then the staves were individually glued to the angled sides. Then the correct angle had to be sawn on the edges of the staves and sanded for fit. After gluing the staves together, the job was to round off the 4 angles from the staves. Here is where I couldn't find my long bench plane.
Used the belt sander and mostly a hand held quarter sheet sander.One more thing: After once setting up the finger joint jig to the miter gauge, I had to disassemble and re assemble it several times in order to do necessary sawing. I was pleasantly amazed at the ease of re-assembling that jig.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA