Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

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Sazerac81
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Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by Sazerac81 »

I have seen multiple threads discussing using the power link or other branded link belts for the shopsmith drive belt that rests on the sheaves.

I wanted to find out how these machines are still running after people have been running them this way for a couple of years. Any regrets or problems that have arisen due to running the linked V-belts on the shopsmith sheaves?

Also, I am just clarifying, but I am assuming no one has tried a linked belt to replace the Poly V-belt. I can't imagine it working well in that instance, but I could be dead wrong so enlighten me if you have done so and have been happy with the results.

I ask because I am hoping to get the shopsmith running just a bit smoother with less vibration.

Cheers,
John
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ChrisNeilan
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by ChrisNeilan »

I have never seen anyone use a linked belt on a Mark V. I have seen it on a 10e. I would not want to test the endurance of the aluminum pulleys of a Mark V. (Or the 10e for that matter).
Chris Neilan

Shopsmith Mark 7, Shopsmith Mark V 1982, shortened, Shopsmith 10 ER; Craftsman table saw (1964); Powermatic 3520B lathe
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JPG
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by JPG »

Have you tried belt dressing?
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nuhobby
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by nuhobby »

Actually I think Bill Mayo did run a number of heads with Power Link belts. But I didn't go look exhaustively at the past postings before saying this. Food for thought.
Sazerac81
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by Sazerac81 »

Cut the old drive belt as it was roughly 7/16" and not the recommended 1/2" they suggest and popped on the Powerlink linked belt on to the sheaths at 35 links as detailed in prior thread posts.

It has helped a bit with the vibration. I bet I need to replace the motor belt as well as it probably is heading into the 30 year range and it does seem to have a bit of set to it. It likes to generally sit in certain positions when rotating by hand.

I am wondering if I should just do a full rebuild of the headstock, change out the bearings, replace belts, etc.

Has anyone rebuilt their head stock recently?

Cheers,
John
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JPG
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by JPG »

Sazerac81 wrote:Cut the old drive belt as it was roughly 7/16" and not the recommended 1/2" they suggest and popped on the Powerlink linked belt on to the sheaths at 35 links as detailed in prior thread posts.

It has helped a bit with the vibration. I bet I need to replace the motor belt as well as it probably is heading into the 30 year range and it does seem to have a bit of set to it. It likes to generally sit in certain positions when rotating by hand.

I am wondering if I should just do a full rebuild of the headstock, change out the bearings, replace belts, etc.

Has anyone rebuilt their head stock recently?

Cheers,
John
The motor belt is what you replaced with the link belt.

The other belt is either a gilmer or a poly-v belt.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Sazerac81
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by Sazerac81 »

drive belt = motor belt. Got it. Words are important. :)

Yes, I need to replace the poly V belt for my headstock.
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db5
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by db5 »

Sazerac81 wrote:drive belt = motor belt. Got it. Words are important. :)

Yes, I need to replace the poly V belt for my headstock.
I replaced the poly V with a linkbelt several years back. Works just fine and no wear on the sheaves. The specs for adjusting from SS are no longer accurate because the belt is thicker and rides higher on the sheaves. I may have posted something here.

Okay, you purists. Tell me why I should scrap this and go back to the original. Logic please not "feel that way" replies. Too much of the latter going on at the national level.
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by Sazerac81 »

db5 wrote:
Sazerac81 wrote:drive belt = motor belt. Got it. Words are important. :)

Yes, I need to replace the poly V belt for my headstock.
I replaced the poly V with a linkbelt several years back. Works just fine and no wear on the sheaves. The specs for adjusting from SS are no longer accurate because the belt is thicker and rides higher on the sheaves. I may have posted something here.

Okay, you purists. Tell me why I should scrap this and go back to the original. Logic please not "feel that way" replies. Too much of the latter going on at the national level.
Wait, db5, you replaced the drive belt with the link belt or did you actually replace the poly V belt with the link belt?

There are two belts, the one that goes between the sheaves (the poly V sheave and the floating sheave) and the poly-V belt or gilmer belt if you have an upgraded greenie, which goes between the quill and the poly V sheave/idler shaft.

I just want to make sure because I wouldn't want anyone to be confused.

See attached figure to make sense of what I am discussing.
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PolyV_GilmerBelt_Replacement.pdf
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Sazerac81
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Re: Quick question of link belts and the shopsmith

Post by Sazerac81 »

There may be a bit of confusion on what exactly the poly-v belt is... the poly v belt refers to a belt with many v shaped ribs from what I understand. The poly v belt looks corrugated and these V's are designed to sit within the grooves of shafts that are run by the poly V belt.

The drive belt is simply a belt that has no particular indentations or special design to it.

The drive belt on the shopsmith sits within the poly V sheaves and floating sheaves.

Clear as mud? :p

Cheers,
John
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