Setting up the dado blade for a 1/4" cut

[poihths]

I have the CMT dado blade set sold by Shopsmith along with the Shopsmith dado arbor. I'm setting up for a 1/4" wide cut, which means I don't need any chipper blades. It seems to me, just looking at the setup, that I would want to offset the teeth on the two cutter blades so that each tooth on one cutter blade matches up to a gullet on the other cutter blade. Am I right about that? Will it matter?

[Gene Howe]

You are correct. And, it matters. Usually the teeth are wider than the blade body. Setting the adjacent to one another would cause the blades to warp when you tighten the arbor nut. Plus, it's likely the carbide would be damaged.
Further, your dado width would be wider.

[wa2crk]

If you find that you have to add chippers you will have to offer set the chippers as well and set them so that the assembly remains balanced. Also cut a test Dado to make sure it fits the tendon properly. You may have to add shims.
Bill V

[Hobbyman2]

I ended up going to a router with a 1/4 inch bit, it is a lot easier to set up.

Also if you stay with the dado set you can use a set of out side calipers to set the blades and shims ,,,,,it will save you a lot of test cuts.


JMO

Hobbyman2

[dusty]

Where on the blade do you set the caliper? Near the arbor or near the circumference.

BTW With my Freud 6" Dado Stack, the inside and outside blades with NO CHIPPERS is as close to 1/4" as I will ever need.


Don't buy "cheap" 1/4" stock!

How about some sort of 1/4" set up block to set your surface planer.

[Hobbyman2]

My calipers are large enough to use on the out side of the cutting tips using multiple {2 } kerfs!

I all ways check the reading going in both directions so that gives me a accurate reading.

Will also tell you if the blade tips are touching or the blade plates are warped some where because you will get 2 different readings.

I dont know any where else you would want to take the measurement to get the width of cut , If the carbide tips are 1/8 ea inch and you bury some of that inside each blade gullet ,,,, I dont see how you could have a 1/4 inch cut with out using shims?

I use a set of milbro ,dad had a set of craftsman and both are that way.

JMO

Hobbyman2

[Hobbyman2]

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Any wobble in the blade will cause a wider cut.

When I make cuts for gift boxes on thin wood I have to use a router , it is way more accurate , I use wood that is many times 3/8 to 1/4 inch thick , not much room for error or a wobble in the blade or saw shaft .




Hobbyman2

[Hobbyman2]

Another thing to realize is if you look at the pictures above,, with out a shim ,,,one tooth is resting on the other saw plate ,I never liked that .

A saw tooth should never touch any thing but wood.

JMO

Hobbyman2

[Hobbyman2]

cheap stock ????,

LOL

I make it all in the shop,,,,when I am done I know 1/4 inch is a 1/4 inch,,, same with 1/2 ,,3/4 ,,or 5/8 ..

I don't use any thing but air dried including reclaimed barn wood ,,all 1/4 saw'n wood.

unless the logs are too big the SS is capable of turning most lumber in to boards with out a issue.

The big stuff goes to the Amish mill .

The big box stores have nothing of interest to me.

It is never straight , it is all ways from baby trees and usually not 1/4 saw'n,its way over priced and it is kiln dried ,,that means the sap was baked into the wood not allowed to dry out of it.

Jmo

Good points though if you use big box products!!

Hobbyman2

[Hobbyman2]

How about some sort of 1/4" set up block to set your surface planer.

=============

My'n is calibrated ,,its a stand alone industrial grade .

Good idea though if yours isnt.

Ya should also use the calipers to make it perfect !


Hobbyman2