Front and Rear Rail Alignment, Mark V 520

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:26 am

When one purchases a 520 upgrade kit, it comes with an aluminum gauge that is to be used to set the height of the rails (front and rear) with respect to the top of the associated table.

What adverse effects will one experience if that adjustment is not done "precisely"?

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:18 pm

The biggest problem I can see is the table heights may not be the same when using connector tubes. If the main table is rail set high and the floating table rail is set low when you put the floating table against the main table the two tables will be set at two different heights.

Also I would imagine if you get the either fence rail too low the fence itself would rub on the table. Too high and something thin would slip under the fence.
Ed

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 1:26 pm

Dusty, I know you are good with a digital camera.
Could I ask you a favor?:)
Could you post up using the alignment guage for those rails?
I've had a bugger of a time getting them in alignment, while close, I feel there is room for improvement on my machine.
I just can't seem to get them there and I'm wondering if I'm missing something.
Or, I'm paranoid.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:10 pm

I will do that, pinkie.

I really want to discuss this procedure because I too am having some "minor" difficulties.

My problems did not occur until I brought a second main table (Crafter's Station) into the picture. I don't understand why this should not be a piece of cake. With the gauge being used to position the rails, once a table is aligned to the rail it should be aligned in any location. That is not my experience.

Pictures and questions to follow.

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 2:51 pm

Thanks Dusty!
I appreciate the help!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:51 pm

As a precursor to discussing any alignment procedure that I have devised for the tables and rails I believe it would be wise to review the procedures that have been provided by Shopsmith.

There are two that seem to be appropriate. The first was subject of a Sawdust Session.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS113/SS113_Aux_Table_Alignment.htm

The other is a procedure that can be found in the Shopsmith Archives/Product Manuals/Mark V 520 Rip Fence Scale Upgrade.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/MKV520_RipFenceScaleUpgrade.pdf

Assuming that these procedures all function either by themselves or when performed in conjunction with one another is a prerequisite. If you disagree with those assumptions, you need not read on.

For my own use, I have sort of combined and modified the procedures.

I attach the rails to the table/tables but do not secure the mounting bolts. The rails can be moved around for later placement. I then install a pair of extension tubes (front and rear) using the shortest tubes available that will span the tables in question.

I then use clamps to secure the aluminum gauges in place per the procedure mentioned above.

I then press the tables upwards against the aluminum gauges and secure the mounting bolts.

[ATTACH]2161[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2162[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]2163[/ATTACH]

In photo #4, note that the bottom of the gauge is positioned on the magnetic strip and NOT on the aluminum rail. I don't know whether this is what Shopsmith intended or not but this is how I have been doing it.

I do the alignment this way because I feel the gauge location is more repeatable when it rests flat on the magnetic strip.

I believe that it would work equally well done either way so long as the gauge is located in the same position on every adjustment point.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:50 pm

Dusty both the descriptions and your super pictures will be a big help to many of us. Now if we can just get you to send those party invites before you enjoy the wine. fjimp:D

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:09 pm

Great stuff Dusty.
The combination of the link to the Sawdust session and your pictures will get me where I need to be. I really need to see the actual "doing" of the process instead of reading the process.
I was placing my aluminum guages on the same corners of the rails and I see where placing them at the opposite ends will give me a better guide. The clamps are a great idea too.
It'll be nice to slide the fence without a little wiggle going from one rail to the other.
Thanks Dusty!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:22 pm

pinkiewerewolf wrote: I was placing my aluminum guages on the same corners of the rails and I see where placing them at the opposite ends will give me a better guide. The clamps are a great idea too.
It'll be nice to slide the fence without a little wiggle going from one rail to the other.
Thanks Dusty!

There is no visual media available that describes the installation and alignment of the rails.

The aluminum gauges that I have were originally only one piece twice as long. I cut it to get the two pieces so that I could work opposite ends of the rail at the same time.

I hope that you are able to obtain and maintain a smooth transition as the fence is moved along the width of the table. I am not able to do that at some of the transition points. I can feel and hear the fence as it crosses over the joint.

I suspect that my rails are not "exactly" the same end profile is some locations.

I have not sensed that it effects rip fence alignment at all.

pinkiewerewolf · Post by **pinkiewerewolf** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:32 pm

The visual that you provided is definitely the key here.
I received two of the aluminum guages with my upgrade.

I also ordered some other items, maybe they included a guage with something else... but my head is spinning these days and I'd forget it, if it wasn't attached.

Too many busses in too many directions.

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