Took the hex head screws out of my sample size of one. One was reasonably snug(not like the slotted set screw glides) and the other had a piece of masking tape(?) on the threads. So I assume the PO had a loose glide problem.
I see the locking set screw as a solution as long as it does not extend into the hole for the stop rod. I still like the 1" set screw for the top that secures the stop rod.
An alternative to the tape would be to damage the threads(on the screw) slightly.
510 Miter Gauge Problem
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JPG
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Re: 510 Miter Gauge Problem
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Re: 510 Miter Gauge Problem
Why did this not quote properly?[/quote]jsburger wrote:I agree, but there was never a "locking" set screw was there?jsburger wrote:[quote="JPG"]My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.
What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.
That keeps crud out of the hole.
*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.
I wood say that you overwrote the "closing quote" bracket with the "opening bold bracket". [/b]
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Re: 510 Miter Gauge Problem
Mine are not close to that loose. I can't turn them with my fingers.reible wrote:Well your new version is far different then mine. Just to prove that mine is in no way a tight fit I did a little video. When and if they will tighten it is due to the hex head, once you adjust them they don't stay in place, it takes just about zero effort to turn them. It is the same on the couple of this vintage that I have.........JPG wrote:My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.
What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.
That keeps crud out of the hole.
*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.
https://youtu.be/lI2cdDNEnCs
So am I just a lucky one or are other peoples ones the same?
Ed
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Re: 510 Miter Gauge Problem
I wood say that you overwrote the "closing quote" bracket with the "opening bold bracket". [/b][/quote]beeg wrote:Why did this not quote properly?jsburger wrote:I agree, but there was never a "locking" set screw was there?jsburger wrote:[quote="JPG"]My 'experience' with both versions* is that the nylon screws(both types) are a tight fit in the threaded hole and do not require a locking set screw.
What I do recommend for the stop rod set screw is a 1" long flat bottom set screw with a 5/32" hex socket.
That keeps crud out of the hole.
*yes I 'located' my 'newer' version. It is tapped through.
I see that now. You are probably correct.
John & Mary Burger
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT
Eagle's Lair Woodshop
Hooper, UT