I've got your grandfather

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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: I've got your grandfather

Post by JPG »

I think I am confused re what you are saying.





Iwegian wrote:JPG...thank you for the info on "previous test" procedures. When I placed a straight edge against my upper wheel, it was flush with the top of my lower wheel. [? 1] I then pushed the top of the upper wheel to remove all play,the offset between the two wheels was correct. [? 2] SO.....I Removed and replaced the two bearings in the upper wheel. I haven't had a chance to see if that remedies my problem or not.
If my thinking is wrong, please correct me. My upper wheel is centered and true, [? 3] so either the upper bearings or the axle are worn (or both). Worst case scenerio I will have to replace the pivot arm. [? 4] After inspecting and measuring the axle, I don,t believe it is worn.Either way it is cheaper than replacing a wheel.
You were asking if the band continues creeping until it falls off the front. No it does not, it stops creeping and stays about centered.Thank you again for your input and information.
[? 1] Did the straight edge also align to the bottom of the lower wheel, or did it clear it?

[? 2] There was 1/4" or more play in the upper wheel bearing????? *

[? 3] What does centered and true mean?

[? 4] Not likely necessary unless it has become weak. It can be 'bent' to correct the cant.

* If so, all info is suspect. With that much slop no angle will be correct.

If you replaced the upper wheel bearing, you have done a difficult thing.

* Did the original bearings have roller pins missing?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Iwegian
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Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:21 pm

Re: I've got your grandfather

Post by Iwegian »

JPG wrote:I think I am confused re what you are saying.





Iwegian wrote:JPG...thank you for the info on "previous test" procedures. When I placed a straight edge against my upper wheel, it was flush with the top of my lower wheel. [? 1] I then pushed the top of the upper wheel to remove all play,the offset between the two wheels was correct. [? 2] SO.....I Removed and replaced the two bearings in the upper wheel. I haven't had a chance to see if that remedies my problem or not.
If my thinking is wrong, please correct me. My upper wheel is centered and true, [? 3] so either the upper bearings or the axle are worn (or both). Worst case scenerio I will have to replace the pivot arm. [? 4] After inspecting and measuring the axle, I don,t believe it is worn.Either way it is cheaper than replacing a wheel.
You were asking if the band continues creeping until it falls off the front. No it does not, it stops creeping and stays about centered.Thank you again for your input and information.
[? 1] Did the straight edge also align to the bottom of the lower wheel, or did it clear it?

[? 2] There was 1/4" or more play in the upper wheel bearing????? *

[? 3] What does centered and true mean?

[? 4] Not likely necessary unless it has become weak. It can be 'bent' to correct the cant.

* If so, all info is suspect. With that much slop no angle will be correct.

If you replaced the upper wheel bearing, you have done a difficult thing.

* Did the original bearings have roller pins missing?

[1] Honestly, I didn't check it at the bottom of the lower wheel.

[2] There is less than 1/16" play in the bearing, but the two wheels are some distance apart.Therefor the amount of play is magnified by that distance. It equals to slightly more than 1/4" between the straight edge and the face of the lower wheel.

[3] While the upper wheel is turning,it is running true with no wobble from side to side or up and down.

[4] If it (I assume the axle) can be "bent", how is the amount of correction controlled?

*Pressing out the bearings was fairly straight forward. I happened to have a punch that fit the bearing shoulder without damaging the bore of the wheel.It helps that I worked with metal before taking up wood.
Iwegian
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Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:21 pm

Re: I've got your grandfather

Post by Iwegian »

Sorry JPG....I didn't see the final question until I posted my last reply. No, there were no needles missing.

Since this bandsaw is new to me, and I don't have any information on how well it has been maintained, I have been going on the assumption that ALL parts are original.
Iwegian
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Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:21 pm

Re: I've got your grandfather

Post by Iwegian »

Well I was able to work on it again today and it is now running and tracking correctly.
THANK YOU JPG for all of your input and posts. The fact that you took the time to make the tune up post with pictures is truly invaluable. I HIGHLY recommend that any first time users read it until it becomes second nature.
THANK YOU again and take care.
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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Re: I've got your grandfather

Post by JPG »

The axle is not 'bendable'. However the arm it is attached to can be twisted. A pipe over the axle and torque gets it done.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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