Shopsmith shaper

[BeaverBob]

I have been attempting to use the Shopsmith shaper to cut roundovers on pieces I'm making. I have gotten the machine set up the way I need it, then cut a few pieces. After cutting several pieces, the cutter head begins to drift downward so it's not cutting the full profile that it should be. At first I thought the problem would be that the headstock was slipping (downward) thereby causing the problem. So I placed a block between the headstock and the carriage to prevent the headstock from drifting. Still had the problem with the cutter drifting though, so I'm guessing that it must be the quill mechanism that is causing the problem. I've checked and the quill lock is tight.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? Know of a solution?

[Hobbyman2]

Is the table moving?

[BeaverBob]

The table is not moving. It is positioned at the bottom of the way tubes (purposely) so that it cannot shift.

[reible]

Do you have the Mark 7 and have it set up under table or do you have a regular shopsmith with it set up from above?

How about a picture of your set up so we can see how you are doing it.

Just as a reference the quill lock seems pretty secure and I can not say I have ever seen mine move when locked. However if you are really hogging out material then there might be a lot more pressure then if you are taking lighter cuts.

Ed

[BeaverBob]

I have the Mark V with the upgraded headstock. Attached is a photo showing the setup I'm using. I am trying to use the top section of the shaper cutter shown to create a 3/16" roundover.

[Beave2012]

So...

Does the quill travel have any play fully locked down?

Is the shaper attachment fully locked in place with no play?

Is the table sliding on way tubes?

Is the table tilt fully locked with no play?

Is the wood the same thickness and not bowing the entire length and for all boards (calipers to measure maybe?)

[Hobbyman2]

I could be wrong ..

I thought the shaper blade and head stock should be under the table ?

in that situation,,,, it looks like the table would have to move away from the quill , the quill would have to move back to the headstock,,, the wood thickness shouldn't make any difference as long as the corner is square since the cut edge is resting on the table. I cant imagine the bit being lose and retracting back into the chuck. ?

[JPG]

It is a Mark V so headstock is above the table.

IIUC, the finished cut is 'shallow' on the workpiece corner.

That corner is on the bottom against the table top.

The most likely cause of the shallow cuts could be the workpiece is warped(concave downward).

Or either the table is drifting TOWARDS the headstock, the headstock is drifting towards the table, of the quill is drifting out(down) or the cutter is drifting down on the quill shaft.

Also the table tilt may be falling away from the cutter.

Also the table may be slipping away from the cutter(horizontally).

Then there is de fence.

I would be making sure all 5 locks are 'locked' and the fence secured.

[BeaverBob]

Sorry for the delayed response.

I went back and cut several pieces of scrap using the same setup. These pieces were thicker than I had used before and I did not experience the "drift" that I thought I was seeing earlier. If the issue had been due to warpage of the thinner stock (3/8") I had been using earlier, it doesn't make sense to me that the cut would get progressively shallower the more cuts I made.

This latest test convinced me that there's nothing wrong with the machine or the machine setup, so I guess the previous "problem" will just have to remain a mystery.

I very much appreciate everyone's comments. Thank you.

[Hobbyman2]

I had a situation like this however ,,,,my cuts were off do to the wood not being held down tight enough on the table and one had a small warp in it , I used feather boards and solved the problem.


I'm thinking like you,,,, there is some thing going on.